Guide: Aleks' 10 favourites from 2022
Summer is on its way and it is starting to be time to think about which watch should sit on the wrist during the sunny holiday. We have picked out five divers under 25,000 kronor that are perfect for the summer’s adventures!
Text/photo: Aleksandar Mladenovic
With the new year just around the corner it is time for Eqotime's writers to list their favourite releases from the past year. A tough task since extremely many interesting watches have been released during 2022. First out is Aleks!
I have sweated a bit ahead of the task and it has been hard. But here come my personal favourites, in no internal order of course. That would have been impossible.
Czapek Antarctique S
Czapek's sports model Antarctique quickly became hot prey among collectors who were looking for a sports watch in steel with an integrated link. Not so strange since Czapek succeeded very well with their interpretation. During Watches & Wonders a somewhat smaller version of the Antarctique was introduced – Antarctique S.
The size is very good with its 38,5mm – even if there are personally a couple of things I think they could have succeeded better with. As with many other manufacturers I can experience the watch as a little ”short and fat” where the proportions from the big brother are not really found again in the smaller model (Audemars Piguet, you did not succeed either…)
Despite this I still consider it to be one of the most interesting watches in its segment with a well finished case, really good link (the rubber bands are also superb) and good-looking dials. This is rounded off with a very pleasant automatic movement with microrotor which is visible through the case back. For the future I only wish for a larger selection of dials for the standard models (but you can actually wish for whatever you want…)
To read more about Czapek and the model you can check out the report we did earlier this year at their Swedish retailer INDP Watches.
Longines Spirit 37
Go anywhere, do anything. A term that fits perfectly with Longines' Spirit collection. For the smaller wrist earlier versions of the Spirit have been a little too generously sized. But after the model was introduced in a 37mm large case they have found their way home according to me.
While we looked more closely at their Zulu Time I also had the chance to acquaint myself a little with the Spirit 37 and it really fell to my taste. Here you get extremely much watch for the money. Three different dials (black, blue, champagne) which are delivered on either a matching link in steel or a leather strap. The build quality is very high and the watch holds a high finish for its price class. Robust automatic movement with the date window at 6 o'clock where it blends in perfectly.
Are you looking for something for every day around 25,000kr? Check out Longines Spirit 37.
Cartier Pebble
A launch that came out of nowhere and that really got the collectors going. A modern version of the very unusual model Pebble. It is speculated that the original, which was made by Cartier London in 1972, was only made in just over 10 examples and recently a Pebble from 1972 was hammered at Bonhams for 239,700 pounds.
The modern edition is somewhat larger than the original with its 36mm instead of 35,4mm and is equipped with the manual movement Cartier 430MC (based on Piaget's 430P). The price tag is very high seen against what you get for the money (around 450,000kr) and compared with other watches e.g. the Tank Cintrée which was also released in a limited edition of 150 examples with the same movement for a considerably lower price tag. But regardless, this will be one of the most sought-after modern watches from Cartier for a long time to come. You must not forget that the total number of Pebbles manufactured is considerably fewer than the number of Crash…
For more pictures of the watch and other vintage candy, click here.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra
For a, fairly short time, Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Ultra was the world's thinnest mechanical watch with its 1,8mm. A couple of months later Richard Mille took over the throne with its RM UP-01 Ferrari. Despite this I think that the Octo Finissimo is clearly the better-looking of the two and that by horse lengths. Apart from the QR code, but everything cannot be perfect.
Technically speaking, very impressive and I am weak for the Octo Finissimo in general so the Ultra was a given on my top list.
Seiko Sports 5 GMT
An automatic watch with a movement equipped with GMT display for under 5,000kr? If anyone would succeed with this it was Seiko. Their Seiko 5 Sports GMT is really good, I actually own one myself. Considering that it was the legendary SKX007 that really got me to start taking an interest in watches I have always had a soft spot for their sporty entry-level models.
The watch is more or less an SKX007 with GMT display and their new movement 4R34 will be interesting to see how they use in future models, I think this model is only the first of many good-looking GMT’s from Seiko that we will probably see more of in the future.
I also want to add that these can be bought pre-owned for around 3,000kr – unbelievably much watch for the money.
Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow
Yet another sports watch from an independent manufacturer that takes a place on the top list. Moser likes to push the boat out and in recent years their Streamliner has been launched in several different versions with different complications. One of the most eye-catching is their Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow which we got to sneak a peek at during Geneva Watch Days.
The watch breathes 1970s with its case shape and integrated link but with a modern touch with a crystal ring decorated with baguette-cut sapphires in the colours of the rainbow. In-house movement with a flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock, very high finish on both case, link and movement and water resistant down to 120m. A sports watch with extra everything.
MB&F Legacy Sequential EVO
Here we have the winner of the prestigious prize Aiguille d’or from this year's GPHG gala. Yet another watch we got the possibility to experience live and the impression was just wow. MB&F likes to take things to the next level. It took the movement constructor Stephen McDonnell five years to construct the movement and it is really something extra.
Two fully integrated chronographs with their Twinverter switch which makes several different timing functions possible: individual timing, split-second, lap timing and ”chess match” mode. To say the least something out of the ordinary.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G
Patek Philippe introduced a very interesting and in my eyes aesthetically appealing model during Watches & Wonders 2022. Their Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G in white gold is the perfect choice for the frequent traveller who wants to stand out with something exclusive.
What I fell for is probably what is the model's watershed – the dial with texture and indexes as well as hands with coloured luminous material, or fake patina. Call it what you want but regardless I think the watch is really good-looking. Here you also keep track not only of the time at home in Sweden but also the local one and also day, date and month. This is actually the first time Patek Philippe combines these two combinations and it flies, to say the least.
The white gold case of 41mm with clous de Paris-decoration on the sides is somewhat large for my wrist, but that does not matter since it is anyway a watch that is far outside my price class with its list price of 65,000 Swiss francs. But dream you can.
Andersen Geneve Tempus Terrae Baguettes
I am very weak for watches with the world timer-complication. Combine this with gemstones and you have my complete attention. The Danish watchmaker Svend Andersen has manufactured a lot of interesting things during his years as an independent watchmaker under his brand Andersen Genève. The fact is that I keep track of his early world-timers which unfortunately have started to run away in price considerably.
The model Tempus Terrae Baguettes with a crystal ring decorated with 36 baguette-cut aquamarines is my favourite. The look of the dial and the complication is very similar to the world timers that Patek Philippe manufactures, not so strange since Svend Andersen worked at Patek Philippe of all places for many years.
In the centre of the dial a large part of the watch's magic takes place. That part is namely manufactured in something that is called BlueGold. The material is made of 24k gold mixed with iron which is then heated up in an oven which results in a blue shimmering gold where each dial becomes unique in its texture. Really lovely if you ask me.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Ultimate II
Yet another watch that took me by storm during Geneva Watch Days. Before our meeting with Arnold & Son I had already seen the watch on Instagram and I fell flat.
The watch is decorated with diamonds and exotic Paraiba tourmalines, one of the world's most sought-after gemstones. The white gold case which measures 44mm is decorated with 7.62 carats of baguette-cut diamonds and also equipped world's largest 3D moon phase (12mm). The dial is decorated with PVD-treated ruthenium crystals and the enormous moon phase consists of equal parts brilliant-cut diamonds and tourmalines, 161 of each.
A joy to behold both from the front and from the back.
