Guide: Albin's 10 favourites from 2023
Behind us we have an exciting year with many great releases on the watch front. Many manufacturers have pushed the boundaries, and many have refined earlier models or released completely new ones.
Text/photo: Albin Johansson / The manufacturers/Eqotime
Behind us we have an exciting year with many awesome releases on the watch front. Many manufacturers have gone all out, and many have refined earlier models or released completely new ones. It was not super easy to boil it down to ten favourites, but here is my best attempt at a highly subjective top list for 2023.
Do not miss our episode of Eqotime Podcast where we sum up 2023, talk market trends and fun watch releases. Available in all podcast players and the episode you find here on Spotify.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126713GRNR
I like vintage Rolex and if I get to choose freely it usually ends up being vintage when I choose what is to adorn the wrist. A personal favourite is a GMT-Master with reference 16753 which is a watch in gold and steel, black dial and bezel with gold details.
Rolex released in the spring of 2023 the new GMT-Master II reference 126713GRNR which I would say is the modern variant of the same watch. Updated case, Jubilee bracelet and a gorgeous ceramic bezel that shifts grey/black depending on the light. The pictures above are taken by our eminent writer and photographer Mia Litström.
The watch just looks really good and the DNA from that nice vintage 16753 shines through the model.
Worth mentioning and as we talked about in Eqotime Podcast it was released at the same time in solid yellow gold for those who want to step up one more level.
A dedicated article about the watch you find here.
Longines Legend Diver
The modern classic Longines Legend Diver has got a new case size. The model itself is a personal favourite since it was relaunched in 2007. The original was released at the beginning of the 60s and the present-day design is very faithful to the original.
The most important thing in this release is a nice matte dial, Beads of Rice bracelet, a clean dial design without a date and of course the well-judged case at 39mm.
Here here we have taken a longer look in video format on Youtube for those who are interested
Tudor Pelagos FXD
Tudor continues to deliver super nice novelties that turn out well both in pictures and on the wrist.
The new Pelagos FXD with a matte black dial is yet another cool titanium diver that feels completely right. It is a bigger watch that does not slip in under the cuff, but that is not the idea either. I got the opportunity to try it at a Tudor event at their press partner Patriksson in Stockholm. Luckily I had Mia Litström with me who could take proper pictures.
Here you will also find a dedicated article about the watch.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC353
A watch with a dial in a pattern that is described as ”lion's mane” must be brought up in the top list. Grand Seiko opened the year with one such that carries the reference SBGC253. Grand Seiko are very good at making special dials and it usually often looks very good. That is the case here and my heart burns a little extra both for GMT watchhes and chronographs so this GS is a given on my list for 2023.
Our writer Ola Jacobsen wrote about it and some other nice novelties. That article you find here.
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm
Tissot's PRX series is a blockbuster in the watch world in recent years. The manufacturer has noticed this and continued to develop nice variant. The latest one hits several right notes for me. A sensible size of 35mm that wears bigger because of the integrated bracelet. A Powermatic 80 movement that is automatic and with a long power reserve.
Top this off with the ice-blue dial and we have a watch that in my opinion is worth every krona. Of course we have had a proper feel of the model and also made a proper video on it.
Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission
This watch we tested at Breitling in Stockholm recently. It just looks very cool and thus became one of my favourites from their new releases in the Avenger series. Yellow dial, yellow strap and black case. Suitably loud but in an ironic way that Breitling has managed to get a good balance with.
Unfortunately the picture is one I have taken myself, but help yourself and do not miss the video at the link below.
See a video with more novelties from Breitling on our TikTok here.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 5260/1455R
A watch made to withstand water, which in this execution should be kept away from water. Patek Philippe playfully demonstrates that they are one of the absolute heaviest watch manufacturers through a fully iced Aquanaut with a Minute Repeater which is part of their Grand complications series.
The watch is 38,8mm and stone-set in the colours of the rainbow over the whole watch apart from the centre of the dial where it has classic colourless diamonds.
Why I love this watch is Patek Philippe's ironic move to take the most simple watch in their range (the Aquanaut is basically a hard-wearing and light piece of steel on a rubber strap) and make it into the most eye-catching and contradictory thing you can imagine given the model's origin. Top this off with a Minute Repeater that chimes out the time when needed and we have an incredible model that really is not for everyone.
Press image from Patek Philippe.
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref 226627 RLX Titanium
Rolex's first watch entirely in their own developed titanium that is actually wearable. A little bigger in size but reportedly the weight makes it feel daintier on the wrist. This is in my opinion a sleeper that Rolex is said to produce few of, which the editorial team has noticed since we have not come across one in the wild and do not have any pictures of our own to share either. It is the first of its kind which makes the model super interesting. They have previously made a Deep-Sea in titanium but that one has been so big that it is not possible to wear (according to hearsay and some qualified guesses).
The nice Yacht-Master has in other words got a really unexpected lift in this model and I am completely sold.
We wrote more about the watch and Rolex's other novelties for 2023 here.
Urwerk UR-100V Stardust
Urwerk is a very good representative of independent manufacturers in the watch industry. With innovative design, naturally limited series (limited by production) and that sort of crazy look that appeals to me. It also has 400 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case that make it sparkle properly.
More info about the watch and quite a few others from independent manufacturers you find from Mia here.
Jacob & Co Billionare Timeless Treasure
A manufacturer that stretches the limits. In connection with the watch fair Watches & Wonders Jacob & Co released their new ”Billionare Timeless Treasure”. The watch is adorned with 425 yellow diamonds which is the most unusual sort. Benjamin Arabo who is CEO of Jacob & Co told Eqotime that the biggest challenge was finding all the stones for the watch.
Britta Rossander has written a longer article about the watch which you find here.
Below you will find a picture of the watch, and also a picture I took on site that shows how big the interest was for the release.
In the picture you see Jacob & Co´s founder Jacob Arabo with the watch on his wrist.
Thank you!
It has been a very interesting year in the watch industry. All the favourites have been chosen for completely subjective reasons and could be completely different if I have to make a new list next week. We thank all our readers, listeners and viewers for being with us.
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