Klockvärldens motsvarighet till Oscarsgalan är tillbaka. Den 13 november går Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) av stapeln – och vi på Eqotime har såklart ögonen på vilka som tar hem årets mest prestigefyllda priser.
Text: Andreas Johansson
GPHG är den största och mest inflytelserika galan i klockindustrin. Sedan starten 2001 har evenemanget utvecklats till att bli branschens viktigaste plattform för att hylla teknisk innovation, design, hantverk och inte minst varumärken som på allvar driver klockvärlden framåt.
Bakom GPHG står en oberoende stiftelse med säte i Genève, vars mål är att främja den schweiziska och internationella klockindustrin. En noga utvald jury bestående av branschexperter, designers, urmakare, journalister och samlare från hela världen utser vinnarna i ett antal olika kategorier – från årets bästa damur till det mest avancerade tekniska mästerverket.
Flera av de nominerade klockorna har redan väckt stor uppmärksamhet i samlarkretsar – och nu är det dags att se vilka som faktiskt plockar hem pokalerna. Nedan listar vi samtliga vinnare i respektive kategori så snart de offentliggjorts.
Årets vinnare – kategori för kategori
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix
Vinnare Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Beskrivning från GPHG:
The first timepiece with a simplified architecture, the design is epitomised by the purity of the white enamel dial, the time displayed by a single hand, yet with a remarkable legibility. More than two centuries ago, it was presented through an advertising pamphlet, the likes of which had never been seen before. Today, the historic, groundbreaking Souscription pocket watch is reborn as a wristwatch. The face of the Souscription 2025 model is adorned with a dazzling white, grand feu enamel dial that faithfully reproduces the spirit of the timepieces once produced at the Quai de l’Horloge workshop, such as the No. 246, No. 324 and No. 383 watches. The back is directly inspired by the architecture of the first Souscription watches signed by A.-L. Breguet. Classique Souscription 2025, hand-wound VS00 calibre, 3Hz and 96-hour power reserve, fine shot-blasting, guilloché and hand-engraved, 40 mm-diameter 18K Breguet gold case, satin-brushed case middle, traditional grand feu white enamel dial, Breguet Arabic numerals and minute track in black petit feu enamel, single opentipped Breguet hand, flame-blued and curved by hand, alligator leather strap and 18K Breguet gold pin buckle.
Ladies’ Watch Prize
Vinnare: Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opa
Beskrivning från GPHG:
A radiant tribute to the creative ingenuity of gérald genta, the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal shines through a fiery lens of natural beauty and craftsmanship. This next chapter in the Gentissima collection explores a connection between vibrant stones and daring shapes that evoke the unexpected. Its 36.5mm yellow gold case is crowned with 137 individually set fire opals, gems of volcanic origin long linked to artistry and energy. Their brilliant hues are echoed in the orange cornelian dial, where an intense texture reinforces the Fire Opal’s identity as a living canvas of design mastery.
The watch houses the GG-005 caliber, a customized Zenith Elite automatic movement, and is completed with a redesigned 18k yellow gold oscillating mass. The faceted crystal and slightly octagonal inner bezel respect the Maison’s signature shape. Every element, from the glass-blasted case finish to the gleaming yellow gold details on the dial, has been designed with audacious elegance in mind to spark joy and curiosity.
Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize
Vinnare: Chopard – Imperiale Four Seasons
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Since its inception in 1994, the IMPERIALE collection has embodied Chopard’s vision of regal elegance and horological excellence. In 2025, this iconic line welcomes a new chapter with the introduction of a dreamy complication: the IMPERIALE Four Seasons, a timepiece capturing the eternal rhythm of Nature through the artistry of watchmaking.
At the heart of this creation lies a rotating disc that completes a full revolution over 365 days, evoking the gentle cycle of the seasons. Crafted in painted textured mother-of-pearl marquetry, this miniature tableau is a moving landscape, shifting subtly with time. The disc is ingeniously indexed to the hours hand in a seamless merging of mechanical ingenuity and poetic expression. The dial is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Its upper half is adorned with a lacework pattern in 18-carat ethical white gold, sculpted into the delicate silhouette of a lotus flower – a recurring motif in the IMPERIALE collection, also echoed in the shape of the crown. Satin-brushed gold petals with polished veins create a striking contrast of textures, while the lower dial reveals a painted mother-of-pearl marquetry gradient that evokes the changing hues of the natural world. The 18-carat white gold case, bezel and crown are adorned with diamonds, enhancing the luminous presence of this IMPERIALE timepiece.
The IMPERIALE Four Seasons is powered by the L.U.C 96.31-L movement: a self-winding mechanical calibre equipped with the exclusive Four Seasons module. Comprising 227 components, it offers a generous 65-hour power reserve – thanks to Chopard Twin Technology – and is entirely developed and assembled in-house, a testament to Chopard’s vertical integration and horological savoir-faire.
The IMPERIALE Four Seasons comes with four interchangeable alligator leather straps, each reflecting the palette of a different season, allowing the wearer to harmonise their timepiece with the world around them. Issued as a 25-piece limited edition, this creation is more than just a watch, instead offering a lyrical celebration of time, Nature and Chopard’s enduring artistry.
Men’s Watch Prize
Vinnare: Urban Jürgensen – UJ-2: Double Wheel Natural Escapement
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Through the UJ-2’s understated beauty flow Urban Jürgensen’s philosophies – that the purest things demand our greatest efforts; that excellence is a goal in and of itself; and that the pursuit of perfection and doing things right is the key to joy. This timepiece is by a Maison that seeks the challenges posed by exceptional watchmaking and doesn’t skirt them.
At its heart is the double wheel natural escapement – a mechanism whose elegance belies the complexity of its creation. Each component, from the hand-finished wheels to the pristine bridges, to the decoration on parts unseen by the naked eye, exists because that’s the way it should be.
When the escapement wheels perform their intricate ballet – each tooth precisely engaging and releasing in a mesmerizing rhythm, orchestrating time with microscopic precision – they represent generations of watchmakers, from Urban’s teacher Abraham Louis Breguet to the watchmakers of today, who looked at accepted solutions and strove to make them better.
The UJ-2 is not about complexity for complexity’s sake. It is about the relentless pursuit of perfection in even the simplest things. Every element, visible or hidden, exists as a testament to the belief that marking time beautifully matters – that the way we choose to count our moments shapes how we experience them.
Men’s Complication Watch Prize
Vinnare: Bovet 1822 – Récital 30
Beskrivning från GPHG:
The Récital 30 is the ultimate world timer, focusing solely on the ground-breaking world time system on rollers from the Récital 28 Prowess 1, which won the GPHG Mechanical Exception Award for 2024.
Prior to the Récital 28 and the Récital 30, all world timers were wrong during the Daylight Saving Time periods. Collectors either had to set their world timers for the countries that changed or for the countries that didn’t change (only about a third of the world changes, 70 countries out of 195) – either way, a large part of the world was always wrong.
The breakthrough was deciding to use rollers instead of a conventional display. Because the dates when the USA and Europe change to Daylight Saving Time are not fixed from year to year, it was impossible to do it in a traditional way. The 24 city rollers are printed on four sides, and the time period roller is printed with the four different periods: UTC, American Summertime (AST), Europe and America Summertime (EAS), and European Wintertime (EWT). When you press the upper pusher of the Récital 30, all the rollers turn 90 degrees at the same time. The cities that don’t change for Daylight Saving Time are printed four times that city (e.g. Beijing), and the cities that do change, like Geneva, are printed three times Geneva and one time the city next to it, in Geneva’s case London, so Geneva and London both change position on the dial when they go to Daylight Saving Time.
The Récital 30 allows world travelers to accurately display the global time zones during the four time periods of the year – so it is never wrong.
The Récital 28 was limited to a total of 60 movements, as only six can be handcrafted each year. The Récital 30, however, which was developed alongside its big brother, is not limited in this way, meaning that anyone and everyone now has access to this world time system, which required over six years of development. Very rarely does a timepiece start its life in the most complicated iteration, but with the Récital 30, this is exactly what happened – the Récital 28 (very complicated and very limited) came first and its little brother the Récital 30 democratized BOVET’s ground-breaking Daylight Saving Time solution.
The Récital 30 emphasizes the essentials needed for keeping track of world time. The world time rollers cover nearly the entire dial, making it the clear focus of this timepiece. In the center is a day/night indicator linked to local time. As a result, the Récital 30 is the perfect companion for world travelers.
Iconic Watch Prize
Vinnare: Audemars Piguet – Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Beskrivning från GPHG:
To mark the beginning of its 150th anniversary celebrations, Audemars Piguet unveils a new generation of selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 7138, which for the first time ever, enhances user comfort by making the corrections of all functions possible via its “all-in-one” crown. The result? An intuitive complication that revolutionises the perpetual calendar experience while improving legibility. This new movement makes its debut on a 41 mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in white gold, on two 41 mm Royal Oak models in a choice of stainless steel or sand gold.
Tourbillon Watch Prize
Vinnare: Bvlgari – Octo Finissimo Ultra tourbillon
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Beyond setting a new thinness record, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon stands as a manifesto. By integrating a skeleton tourbillon into the movement of a watch with a total thickness of just 1.85 mm, the Roman jeweller’s Swiss watchmaking division demonstrates its horological expertise with watchmaking’s most emblematic complication.
Skeletonisation or the art of sculpting transparency: Today, Bvlgari has taken skeletonisation to the next level on the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon – to maximise light diffusion throughout the movement. This approach creates striking contrasts through contemporary decorative techniques applied to key visible components.
A 40 mm case with sandblasted titanium lugs, bezel and middle case. Tungsten carbide main plate. Winding and time-setting wheels in stainless steel with circular brush finishing. Steel ratchet with circular brush finishing engraved with a geometric decoration. Sandblasted titanium bracelet with fully integrated folding buckle, 1.50 mm thin. Hour and minute display counter in sandblasted brass with anthracite DLC coating, polished brass hands with rhodium coating. BVF 900 manual winding tourbillon mechanical ultra-thin movement.
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize
Vinnare: Greubel Forsey – Nano foudroyante
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Greubel Forsey unveils the first official limited edition of its Nano Foudroyante: a breakthrough timepiece born from years of research, now matured beyond its Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) origins. Limited to just 22 timepieces, this creation marks a significant new chapter in Greubel Forsey’s 10th Fundamental Invention.
From Prototype to Timepiece
Originally presented in 2024 as a commemorative EWT edition, the Nano Foudroyante was Greubel Forsey’s most technically radical concept to date. Today, it has evolved into a fully realized and independent creation – no longer tethered to an anniversary or prototype designation.
The new Nano Foudroyante is crafted entirely in white gold, replacing the original combination of white gold and tantalum. It presents a different architectural identity: the gold dial is now finished in rhodium with a blue minute track, while the hands are rendered in blued steel with matching cannon pinions. The foudroyante dial itself is now white with transferred numerals, enhancing legibility and echoing the crisp visual language of the tourbillon aperture. A blue textured rubber strap completes the aesthetic – a clear evolution from the original edition, and a declaration of this timepiece’s own distinct personality.
Nanomechanics: Reinventing the impossible
At the heart of this timepiece lies a disruptive idea: nanomechanics – the control of energy at the nanojoule scale inside a mechanical movement. This paradigm shift enables the Nano Foudroyante to operate its eponymous complication using just 16 nanojoules per jump, compared to 30 microjoules in traditional designs – a staggering reduction by a factor of 1,800.
The complication divides each second into six segments using a lightweight, red-treated hand that rotates once per second, driven directly by the oscillations of the 3 Hz balance wheel. There is no traditional gear train; instead, a minimalist series of low-inertia wheels efficiently distributes energy through the movement.
A Compact and Refined Architecture
The Nano Foudroyante mechanism is embedded within Greubel Forsey’s first flying tourbillon, creating a visual and technical centerpiece. The foudroyante’s dial remains permanently oriented to twelve o’clock, even as the tourbillon rotates – ensuring optimal readability.
The timepiece features a hand-wound flyback with 2 patents, totaling 428 components (including 142 for the tourbillon cage). Despite this complexity, the movement measures just 31.60 mm in diameter and fits within a 37.90 mm white gold case – Greubel Forsey’s most compact ever.
The case is fitted with a high-domed sapphire crystal, straight-grained finishing on the caseband, and a transparent caseback. Subtle engravings – “Nano Foudroyante” and “Greubel Forsey” – stand out in polished relief over a hand-hammered background.
A New Chapter, Fully Realised
This timepiece embodies maturity and intent, created for 22 collectors who will experience Greubel Forsey’s most energy-efficient, compact, and conceptually advanced timepiece to date.
Chronograph Watch Prize
Vinnare: Angelus – Chronographe Télémètre Yellow gold
Beskrivning från GPHG:
The La Fabrique collection welcomes the Chronographe Télémètre—a 15-piece limited edition in yellow gold—that recalls Angelus’s functional and aesthetic history. Founded in 1891 in Le Locle by the Stolz brothers, Angelus quickly specialised in alarm clocks, minute repeaters, and, above all, chronographs.
Distance and time
A telemeter is one of the measurement scales linked to a chronograph’s sweep seconds. Telemeters measure the distance of an event. The chronograph starts when the event is seen and stops when it is heard. The scale is finely graduated in kilometres and corresponds to the duration divided by the speed of sound (approximately 1,240 km/h).
Body and face
With a diameter of 37 mm, the Chronographe Télémètre is the smallest contemporary Angelus model. The case middle presents characteristic curves that run from lug to lug. The polished edges, plunging at the top and twisted on the flanks, highlight the complex shape of the lugs. These dynamic details contribute to the characteristic vintage signature of the timepieces in the La Fabrique collection.
The dial is available in white, evoking the subtle shine of nickel. The satin-finished flange echoes the finish of the case and contrasts with the grained effect in the centre of the dials. These finishes are illuminated by a delicate diamond-polished thread that separates the two areas. The small seconds and 30-minute totaliser counters are snailed, while the appliqué hour-markers and Arabic numerals have been given a 3N gold finish.
Heart and soul
The Chronographe Télémètre is powered by the in-house A5000 calibre. This chronograph movement, with an integrated mono-pusher, presents a two-tone finish: the elements of the mainplate and the bridges are golden-finished, while the components of the chronograph function are finished in palladium. The overall effect is completed by pronounced bevelling and stretching.
With its hand-wound movement and a 42-hour power reserve, a small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock, the A5000 calibre is a highly flexible technical cornerstone for Angelus. It has a slim profile of 4.20 mm and a diameter of 24 mm (10½ lignes), making it the perfect match for the 37 mm case of the Chronographe Télémètre. Last but not least, its regulating group oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour). The chronograph function is controlled by a column wheel with a horizontal clutch, just as it was in chronographs produced between the 1940s and the early 1970s.
Sports Watch Prize
Vinnare: Chopard – Alpine Eagle 41 sl Cadence 8hf
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Since its inception in 2019, the Alpine Eagle collection has been continually enriched with new technical feats. With its third edition of high-frequency timepieces, it marks yet another achievement by introducing the lightest watch ever presented in the collection. The 41-millimetre case, crown and bezel of this Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF model – issued in a 250-piece limited edition – are crafted in ceramicised titanium, teamed with a special-shaped rubber strap. Even its high-frequency, chronometer-certified Chopard 01.14-C movement is lighter than its predecessor, thanks to a mainplate and bridges also made of ceramicised titanium. This cutting-edge technology is complemented by a perfectly mastered aesthetic: the ceramicised titanium features a sporty bead-blasted finish, while the Pitch Black titanium dial plays on contrasts with subtle orange accents. Precision, style and sportiness – the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF has it all.
High frequency improves chronometry, a theme particularly dear to Chopard’s Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. While shocks are part of the life of a watch, they nonetheless disturb the oscillations of the balance. Due to a statistical effect however, the faster the balance beats, the less effect each impact has on the average rate. This high frequency is also high speed, thus implying rapid recovery of the isochronous rate.
More technical and complex to produce than a movement with a conventional escapement, the new Chopard Calibre 01.14-C leverages the properties of monocrystalline silicon to optimize its 8 Hertz frequency. This lightweight, self-lubricating material is used to minimise the high friction experienced by the pallet-lever, escape-wheel and impulse pin. The lightness of silicon, its tribological properties along with the flexibility offered by its manufacturing technology have enabled Chopard to develop an escapement dedicated to high frequencies without increasing energy consumption.
Jewellery Watch Prize
Vinnare: Dior Montres – La de Dior Buisson Couture
Beskrivning från GPHG:
In 2023, Victoire de Castellane unveils the majestic Les Jardins de la Couture High Jewellery collection, marking the beginning of a new way of expressing nature with blossoming garlands of ‘couture bushes’ that evoke the artistry of intricately embroidered florals.
This acclaimed collection served as an inspiration for Dior Jewellery Creative Director Victoire de Castellane who further explored the garden topic, encapsulating it in a precious timepiece. This new creation is all about beauty, sensuality, emotion and softness, both echoing the world of Victoire de Castellane and of Monsieur Dior, fervent garden and flower lover.
This new la D de Dior reflects meticulous craftsmanship, with a discerning selection of stones chosen for their hue and shape to reproduce a luxuriant yet delicate garden. Each gem acts as a delicate petal, artfully placed on the dial, on the bezel, the crown and the case back.
The making of this creation is a true technical feat. Indeed, the ateliers managed to recreate an effect of volume and density thanks to the close settings between the various stones, which also guarantees that the metal stays invisible and does not harm the gems.
La D de Dior Buisson Couture is a lush bouquet of diamonds, pink sapphires of different shades and delicate tsavorite, with brilliant, pear, oval and marquise cuts, perfectly reproducing the natural effect of a luxuriant garden. Each ‘bush’ is distinguished by its harmonious colors, ranging from delicate green to soft and vivid pink, highlighted by the sparkle of white diamonds and the softness of pink gold.
Feat of beauty as much as feat of art, this stunning creation celebrates the art of gem-setting in all its details. Off centered, the time indication at 3 o’clock almost disappears with its gold hands delicately set by hands with diamonds. An additional detail of refinement completed by the gem-setting on the crown, case-back and buckle for a piece of art requiring 480 hours of work and more than 150 hours for the manual setting of the 1088 precious stone of its dial.
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize
Vinnare: Voutilainen – 28GML SOUYOU
Beskrivning från GPHG:
The Voutilainen 28GML SOUYOU is a true masterpiece that unites the extraordinary Japanese lacquer art of Mr. Tatsuo Kitamura with the Voutilainen workshop’s dedication to longevity, precision and classical watchmaking tradition. This timepiece offers a perfect balance of aesthetic and mechanical excellence, harmoniously blending Eastern and Western influences.
The mesmerizing dial draws inspiration from the motto, “SOUYOU” — a coined word that is reflected in the striking contrast between blue, green, gold and red colours. “SOU” evokes, in the outer part of the dial, the sea represented by the deep, clear blue-green hues, while ‘YOU’, with its shades of gold and red in the center, signifies a natural organic form symbolizing solar energy. Created using the Urushi lacquering technique, it requires over a thousand hours of meticulous work. This extraordinary creation incorporates raw materials such as “Urushi” (tree sap), “Kinpun” (various gold powders), “Kirigane” (cut gold sheets), and “Kirigai” (cut shell from New Zealand abalone and the great green turban).
Perfect for world travellers, this unique piece displays hours, minutes, and a central second time zone via a disc that completes a full 24-hour rotation, designed to indicate the home time. Subtly integrated into the gold motif on a red background, the second time zone pointer is easy to read at first glance. Meanwhile, the central hour hand can be easily adjusted to the local time of the destination with a simple push on the crown.
The mechanism was designed, built, fabricated, hand-finished and assembled to the highest standards by the expert artisans of the Voutilainen workshop with the utmost precision, care and passion. Technically, the caliber of the 28GML is equipped with a very large balance wheel crafted in-house, ensuring precise rate stability and accuracy within strict tolerances. Additionally, a rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring has a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little-known Grossmann curve further increasing accuracy. It is also particularly remarkable due to its two escapement wheels, which provide a direct impulse to the balance through the roller/jewel. This innovative construction improves efficiency by requiring less energy than the Swiss lever escapement and allows for notable benefits, for everyday use, such as longevity, stability and a longer power reserve.
The case back offers a captivating view of the caliber 28GML ’s intricacies that is meticulously finished to the highest standards by the expert artisans of the Voutilainen workshop. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and polished with exceptionally uniform tolerances. The main plate and bridges, made from German-silver, are decorated by hand to achieve the utmost levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are also finished and polished by hand.
Completing the overall design, the 39 mm timepiece in platinum features an elegant hand-sewn strap.
“Petite Aiguille” Prize
Vinnare: M.A.D. Editions – M.A.D.2 Green
Beskrivning från GPHG:
The M.A.D.1 kicked off the M.A.D.Editions project – the alternative, accessible label created by MB&F – by breaking the rules; the M.A.D.2 spins a different story. Born from the mind of Eric Giroud – designer, rebel, and longtime MB&F Friend – this timepiece is a love letter to the wild, electrifying spirit of 1990s club culture; it’s the second act in a saga that started with an unexpected hit.
Eric Giroud has been designing MB&F pieces for 20 years with founder and creative director Maximilian Büsser. For the 20th anniversary of MB&F, it was only fitting: this one’s his baby. But following up a hit? That’s a challenge – like the second album of a band that nailed their debut.
Eric and Max both hail from Lausanne; Giroud’s journey is anything but traditional Swiss design. While others might have been lurking around cold offices, Eric was tearing it up on dancefloors, living the 1990s club scene. Nights at the legendary MAD (Moulin à Danses) and Dolce Vita clubs in Lausanne, surrounded by creatives, musicians, actors and artists, shaped his aesthetic.
Friends called him ”Erico”. He hung out with Sébastien and Stephan Kohler—DJs who hit international fame with their track At Night. Early house music boomed, Stephan Kohler (Mandrax) spun vinyl on the famous Technics SL-1200 Mark 2, and there was a palpable sense of freedom. The 90s were electric, a time when change was in the air, especially in music. This is the world that inspired the M.A.D.2—a watch born from the heartbeat of a bygone rave era.
The M.A.D.2’s raised central subdials – displaying the hours and minutes – look like the turntables from a DJ mixing console. The central dial over which they rotate is a love letter to vinyl textures, with grooves and satin finishes mimicking music tracks. Surrounding it is the platter, inspired by the stroboscopic band of the Technics SL-1200 – complete with Super-LumiNova stop pins. Every flick of the wrist sets the platter spinning, and if you listen closely, it’s as if you can hear the rhythm of the past pulsing through it. The stroboscopic platter is in fact the automatic winding rotor, visible from both the front and the back. Flip the watch over and you’ll discover the gyroscopic off-centered rotor which will make your head spin.
And there’s a horological surprise: the jumping hour complication. It’s a secret you only uncover after spending time with the watch—nothing screams “bi-directional jumping hours” at first glance. The small metal markers – which look like guitar picks, almonds, or maybe even alien eyes – conveniently indicate the jumping hour and trailing minutes at the very center of the watch.
At 42mm, the M.A.D.2 feels as smooth as it looks. It balances the playful, unexpected approach of M.A.D.Editions without going over the top—like a perfectly polished almond. Despite being visually worlds apart from the M.A.D.1, they share a heartbeat: the same Swiss La Joux-Perret movement found in the M.A.D.1S, now enhanced with a bespoke jumping hour module developed by MB&F. Swiss-made, Swiss-assembled.
Challenge Watch Prize
Vinnare: Dennison – Natural stone tiger eye in gold
Beskrivning från GPHG:
A distinguished revival of the classic Dennison cushion case, our Stone Dial watch pays homage to the elegance of the 1960s.
Crafted in PVD gold over stainless steel, the case measures a refined 37mm by 33.5mm, with an ultra-slim 6mm profile, offering a seamless balance of presence and comfort on the wrist. The dial features Natural Tiger’s Eye, a striking stone chosen for its warm depth and pattern, each one cut and polished to reveal its unique character.
Interchangeable leather straps in brown, black, and navy allow for effortless versatility, secured with a thoughtfully designed pin-buckle that echoes the case’s curvature and material finish.
A testament to enduring style and subtle detail.
Mechanical Clock Prize
Vinnare: L’epée 1839 – Albatross L’epée 1839 x MB&F
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Albatross features a striking hour function – chiming both the specific hours on the hour and a single strike on the half-hour – and an automaton composed of 16 pairs of propellers that launch into action every hour. A mechanical computer lets the owner choose between full operation mode, full quiet mode, silent mode with the propellers running, or just the chime. There is also a “repeat on demand” button to repeat the predefined chime/automaton setting or to activate the propellers in standalone continuous motion.
The brainchild of designer Eric Meyer, Albatross was inspired by the “Albatross” airship in Jules Verne’s novel Robur the Conqueror, as well as Verne’s broader fascination with flight, rockets, and hot air balloons.
The clock’s technical specifications are impressive: 1,520 components, 17 kg in weight, and dimensions of 60 cm long by 60 cm high and 35 cm wide. Inside the aircraft are two movements and two winding systems: one powers the time and striking hour via two separate barrels, while the other drives the automaton, powered by a third barrel. The first movement is manually wound via the propellers at the front of the flying machine – clockwise for the striking hour and counter-clockwise for the time. The propellers at the rear are used to wind the automaton. In terms of power reserve, the clock runs for an average of eight days – whether the chiming function is activated or not – and the automaton operates for about one hour.
Not only is this the first “propeller hour” clock ever to be created, but it has a mechanical system inside that allows its future owner to turn the actions on or off, as desired. Thanks to the mechanical computer, the propellers can turn independently of the chime, and vice versa.
A closer look at the propellers reveals that they work in synchronized pairs, turning together to create the illusion of increased speed. Each pair rotates at a speed of 7 seconds for half a turn, or 14 seconds for a full turn, ensuring they remain visible and don’t create any wind.
The propellers on the left side of the spaceship turn one way, while those on the right side go the other way, as if the ship really was going to take off. Another detail to note is that when the hour strikes, the propellers operate instantaneously, attesting to the attention to detail that has gone into the Albatross’ creation.
Audacity Prize
Vinnare: Fam al Hut – Möbius
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Fam Al Hut introduces the MARK 1 Möbius—a bold debut that redefines technical miniaturization and spatial design in haute horlogerie. At its heart is an in-house bi-axis tourbillon, housed within one of the most compact wristwatch formats ever created.
The Möbius is the result of a creative collaboration between Xinyan Dai and Lukas Young, a pioneering figure in contemporary Chinese watch design. Young brings his forward-thinking vision to the Fam Al Hut marque, setting the tone for a new chapter rooted in innovation and refined engineering.
Compact yet mechanically sophisticated, the MARK 1 Möbius measures just 42.2mm x 24.3mm x 12.9mm. Inside, a capsule-style movement unfolds like a microscopic mechanical city—layered, intricate, and mesmerizing. The dual-axis tourbillon rotates on two axes at 150 seconds and 60 seconds respectively, forming the kinetic centrepiece of this architectural marvel. Despite its complexity, the manually wound in-house movement offers a 50-hour power reserve.
A lugless design enhances the watch’s refined ergonomics, offering a wrist presence similar to traditional 36-38mm timepieces. The exterior contrasts the movement’s intricacy with radical minimalism—its concave stainless steel case and polished sapphire crystal front and back flow seamlessly into an integrated strap, creating a sleek, modern silhouette.
The MARK 1 Möbius is more than a timepiece; it is a statement of intent—a convergence of aesthetic purity and mechanical depth, built to challenge conventions and captivate collectors with its uncompromising vision.
Time Only
Vinnare: Daniel Roth – Extra Plat Rose Gold
Beskrivning från GPHG:
The DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Rose Gold is an evolution that reaffirms a commitment to timeless elegance and traditional haute horlogerie. The iconic double-ellipse silhouette has a refined 7.7mm profile and introduces a warm, contemporary character using 5N rose gold. With an open case back and a two-tone dial crafted from solid white and rose gold, the watch seamlessly bridges tradition with a modern sensibility.
The dial is distinguished by handcrafted guilloché en ligne. Visible through the sapphire case back is the calibre DR002, a movement developed exclusively for the Extra Plat collection by Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The DR002 mirrors the double-ellipse shape of the case and is decorated with hand-polished bevels and flowing bridge lines. Technically advanced, the calibre beats at 4Hz and features a free-sprung balance with variable inertia weights for optimal chronometric performance, while delivering a practical 65-hour power reserve.
The Extra Plat Rose Gold represents purity and savoir-faire, masterfully balancing modern elegance with time-honoured craft.
Horological Revelation Prize
Vinnare: Anton Suhanov – St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock
Beskrivning från GPHG:
Anton Suhanov was far removed from the idea of making the St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon clock in the traditional way. Carl Fabergé’s Easter egg objects are generally an example of luxury jewelry. He did not try to be restrained in his design, which is quite appropriate for the wealth of the customer and the taste of the time. On the contrary, Suhanov strove for minimalism in his design and wanted to give the genre of Easter egg clock a different, modern, relevant vision – even breathe new life into it.
Let’s start with the fact that the St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon clock looks like the legendary egg of Columbus, which mysteriously remains in a perfectly vertical position as there are no supporting parts. The Suhanov version of the Easter egg object is the most laconic image of a pure egg shape, which combines three main parts: a base made of mirror-polished stainless steel, the main part (“shell”) made of a hand-guilloched silver case decorated with translucent hot enamel, and finally a domed sapphire crystal placed above the tourbillon and time displays.
The only detail that stands out a little from the immaculately smooth egg-shaped figure is the bezel with the notches and markings of the 24-hour time scale; this scale also allows the seconds to be measured by the tourbillon, which makes one revolution in exactly 24 seconds. The time can be set by turning this bezel – in all 24 time zones simultaneously. The sector with the local time of Moscow (and St. Petersburg) is highlighted by a radial brushing that contrasts with the surface of the other 23 sectors of the city disk.
Chronometry Prize
Vinnare: Zenith – G.F.J. Calibre 135
Beskrivning från GPHG:
When Georges Favre-Jacot established his manufacture in 1865, his objective was to create ‘the perfect watch’: the finest, most precise and most reliable timepiece ever made. This quest for perfection is reflected in the very name of his brand, ZENITH, referring to the highest point in the sky. To celebrate its 160th anniversary and its quest for excellence in all fields of watchmaking art, the brand releases a timeless classic powered by an exceptional movement. Named after the initials of Georges Favre-Jacot, the sleek, slender and elegant G.F.J. brings back to life the legendary calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions.
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