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Servicing a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Part 2: Polishing and inspection

As someone interested in watches you will most likely at some point have to confront a watch's need for service. Sometimes you know about it and sometimes it comes as a surprise. Eqotime's Ola Jacobsen guides you here through a step by step guide to what actually happens when a watch is serviced. In this second part we follow the watch through polishing and inspection. Come along!

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Servicing a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Part 2: Polishing and inspection

Text & images: Ola Jacobsen


As someone interested in watches you will in all likelihood at some point have to confront a watch's need for service. Sometimes you know about it and sometimes it comes as a surprise. Eqotime’s Ola Jacobsen guides you here a step by step guide in what it actually is that happens when a watch is serviced. In this second part we follow the watch through polishing and inspection. Come along!


After the watch has been disassembled, as we showed in Part 1, it is time for polishing of the case and the link. This is included in the service cost, but is optional. I opt out of polishing because I like my watch as it is, but Peter's colleague has just taken in another Sea-Dweller 16600 so I follow along with her during the polishing work.


The watchmaker notes which length the link is set to so that the customer gets it back at the same length. After that the link and the clasp are taken apart and brought into the polishing room.

During polishing the helium valve is left in place so as not to risk gouging out material around the hole. If the watch has through holes for the strap pins these are plugged for the same reason.

The watchmaker paints the surface that is to be polished with a red pen, in order to more easily set the right angle without removing unnecessarily much material from the case.

First coarser scratches are ground down with a belt sander, with ever finer grit. This establishes a new base surface.

The next step is to work away the scratches from the base grinding with the help of a wheel and abrasive.

The surface is evened out through a series of grinding and polishing steps with ever finer polishing paste and fluffier wheels.

Out in the watchmaker's workshop Peter is working with the pre-washed movement. As he takes it apart every part is examined in the hunt for wear. Everything that deviates from the best condition is weeded out. After the whole movement has been taken down into its component parts the movement is washed one last time. Here the movement goes through an ultrasound programme as well as four rinsing steps.



In connection with the service work a running check is also made that the movement has received its upgrades and has genuine Rolex original parts.

If there are questionable parts in the watch these are replaced with parts from Rolex or else the service is declined. This so that the workshop can give the two year guarantee that comes with the service. In certain cases this happens in consultation with the customer. It can be about older dials, where the customer wants to keep a beautifully aged dial, despite it meaning that the workshop cannot leave any guarantee on the work since parts from the dial risk coming loose and damaging the watch.


While the movement parts are being washed Peter goes to the chest of drawers with spare parts. He pulls out a drawer with hundreds of different parts, and takes a crown tube package, a helium valve package and crystal and case back gaskets.

Peter prepares the threads that the helium valve is to fasten into with a combination of glue and lubricant before the valve is screwed in.

A special torque screwdriver is used to get exactly the right pressure.

The crown tube is screwed in, but for the coarser crown tube no torque driver is needed.

Before Peter screws the crown in place he makes sure that both crown tube gaskets come properly into place.

Now it is time to test the function of the new helium valve. The purpose of the valve is to let out expanded gas out of the watch. The need arises when so-called saturation divers finish their shift and the pressure in their habitat is lowered from the working depth's pressure to normal pressure. Helium atoms that have found their way into the watch during the pressurised weeks then need to be able to get out of the case in a safe way.


Peter mounts the watch in a test rig from Rolex, which at the same time as it seals the front and back of the case can also blow air into the case.

The whole package is lowered down into water and the air flow is activated. Almost immediately air starts bubbling out of the helium valve. It works!

The next step is to press in the crystal. This model uses a system with a thin plastic gasket around the crystal.

The last step is to screw the case back on and then test the water resistance.


The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 is supposed to be water resistant to 1220 metres depth. Normally watches are pressure tested in a chamber with both over- and underpressure. There they are subjected to an under- respectively overpressure that bends in respectively widens the case and crystal. Sensitive sensors then measure whether the case bends back or not.

This method does not work on a Sea-Dweller, since it is so robustly built. Instead the water resistance is tested in a water-filled steel chamber that is pressurised manually by the watchmaker.


Peter puts the watch in and fills up with water until the surface tension stands like an arc over the container. He closes the lid and screws it tight.

By using the crank at the side of the steel chamber Peter increases the pressure in the water where the watch lies to the equivalent of 1350 metres depth, 10 percent deeper than what the watch is supposed to withstand. After 16 minutes it is done. The case withstands the enormous pressure.


In the next part we follow the watch through the phases assembly and adjustment. Don't miss Part 1 either!


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