The Reference: Rolex Explorer 14270

Text/image: Niclas Berglund

Bezl meets Eqotime's Aleksandar Mladenovic, also known as AleksWatches on Instagram, a prominent profile in the watch industry with deep knowledge and a special eye for vintage watches. As a driving force behind Eqotime and his own brand AleksWatches, as well as a consultant in the trade of pre-owned watches based in Stockholm, Aleksandar has cultivated a reputation for excellence with customers from all over the world who seek out his expertise.

The article is written by Niclas Berglund from Bezl Magazine in collaboration with Eqotime

I reach Aleksandar in a snow-covered Stockholm to talk about a classic from Rolex, specifically the Explorer model. During our conversation he shares his extensive knowledge and passion for this iconic watch, which is a favourite among many collectors and adventurers the world over.

Rolex, an icon within the world of luxury watches, is a brand that symbolises achievement and reliability. The Swiss watch brand is known for its uncompromising quality and its commitment to innovation, which is reflected in every watch they make. Rolex watches are known for their durability, elegant design and technical precision, qualities that make them a preferred companion for both adventurers and people at every stage of life.

What can you tell Bezl's and Eqotime's readers about the historical significance of the Rolex Explorer 1 and its connection to adventure?

– The Rolex Explorer is, in my eyes, one of the most underrated models in the Rolex range while at the same time being a perfect watch from many points of view. It is understated, robust and versatile. 

At the beginning of the 1950s Rolex developed watches that would cope with large temperature differences and they equipped the adventurers who were to climb Mt. Everest with ”Oyster” watches. After Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay succeeded with the feat and shortly thereafter the Rolex model ”Explorer” was born with the iconic layout of the dial with the Arabic numerals 3-6-9.

Rolex launched the reference 1016 in 1959 and it is the reference Rolex has produced the longest ever, up until 1989. A receipt that it is the ultimate sports watch perhaps?

In 1989 it was time to upgrade the series with among other things new movements and dials and today's modern Explorer does not differ much from the model that was introduced in 1989.

The Explorer has come in several different sizes, 36mm 39mm and most recently 40mm. Which size does the model most justice in your opinion?

– As something of a conservative person with wrists on the smaller side there is no doubt that 36mm is the size I lobby for. Whether you have larger or smaller wrists I think an Explorer should be 36mm. 

Then of course I understand the people who think it is too small and choose the larger ones at 39/40mm because you want the same aesthetic in a larger package. But from the point of view of proportions and seen in terms of history I would never choose any other size than precisely 36mm.

In this article we can see the reference 14270, how has the design of the Rolex Explorer 1 developed since it was first introduced in 1953 with reference 6350?

– Quite a lot but at the same time quite little. Reference 6350 which was the first to carry precisely ”Explorer” on the dial had a ”honeycomb” pattern with ”gilt” indexes, text and hands.

Reference 1016 basically looks like the 6350 but with a slightly more pared-back appearance, but where the typeface on the numerals is very similar. 

With the 14270 we have in every way a much more modern watch in appearance, indexes and hands with a frame in white gold, white luminous material (which in some cases has yellowed if it is tritium) as well as a much larger and more modern typeface on the ”3-6-9”. 

The red thread is clear and is also what Rolex is known for, they rarely reinvent the wheel but just refine their own models and upgrade them with modern technology.

What has given this model the icon status it has today? 

– Of course the connection to Mt. Everest and the famous adventurers who have worn it. But then the Explorer was an obvious choice for many celebrities during the 90s and 00s for example. 

Tom Hanks, Matt Damon, Orlando Bloom & Ellen Degeneres all have in common that they have sported a Rolex Explorer.

How important is this model for Rolex?

– Extremely important. One of the most important even if not as iconc as the Submariner and Daytona for example. The history speaks for itself and it is actually one of those models that people who do not really like Rolex can most often imagine wearing if they were to choose a Rolex. It is very much ”its own” in its design compared to many other watches Rolex has produced. 

Which are the most sought-after versions of the Rolex Explorer 1 on the collector market?

– Of course the very earliest command as usual a high price tag. But even well-preserved and fine examples of reference 1016 can reach great heights (no pun intended). 

When it comes to the slightly more modern ones the ”Blackout” versions of reference 14270 are of course very sought after among collectors. These were produced only for a short period over approx. 2 years between 1989 and 1991. 

A beautiful aged patina is often seen as a factor that increases the value – why does this phenomenon attract collectors around the world?

– Patina is not for everyone, but as a rule it is a value-increasing factor. The fact that no watch ages like another raises the feeling that you have something a little more unique in your possession. 

For me, who prefers vintage overall, there is no doubt that if I were to get a Rolex Explorer it would probably have been a 14270 (if the budget does not stretch to a fine 1016). In my eyes you then get a perfect combination of the new, modern but with the aesthetic that comes with an older Rolex, i.e. Yellowed indexes and hands as these have tritium as luminous material. 

If you are going to buy your first Explorer 1, what do you advise Bezl's readers to think about?

– As always I am an advocate that you should choose condition over accessories. You don't wear the box and cert on your wrist anyway. 

Think through a little what you are looking for when you are going to choose an Explorer, there are so many variants. From early versions of the 14270 with the ”old” clasp and tritium, to newer versions with solid end links and superluminova and a ”rehaut”. 

Finally, what watch are you wearing yourself today?

– Today I am actually wearing an Explorer 14270, T-series from 1996, believe it or not!

My journey in the world of watches has been both long and filled with passion, but one model that holds a special place in my heart is the Rolex Explorer ref. 14270. This watch, which I have proudly owned for almost a decade, was one of the first I bought from the brand. Its beauty lies in its simplicity – a true classic that stands up to the test of time. I fully understand why it has become an icon; still today I cannot help admiring its sporty elegance and simple beauty. The Explorer ref. 14270 represents the essence of Rolex – its ability to combine form and function in a design that feels just as natural in the wilderness as in a formal setting. The watch's balance between adventure and sophistication reminds us why Rolex continues to be a leader within luxury watches. Its discreet charm and solid construction make it the ultimate companion through all of life's adventures.

The 14270 has shown me that true beauty often lies in simplicity. As Aleksandar mentions in the interview, ”With the 14270 you get a perfect combination of the new, modern but with the aesthetic that comes with an older Rolex” – for me, physical proof that classic design values will always stand up to the test of time. The Explorer 14270, reminds me of why I started collecting watches in the first place.

The article is written by Niclas Berglund from Bezl Magazine in collaboration with Eqotime