Servicing a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Part 1: Disassembly and cleaning

As someone interested in watches you will in all likelihood at some point have to confront a watch's need for service. Sometimes you know about it and sometimes it comes as a surprise. Eqotime’s Ola Jacobsen guides you here a step by step guide in what it actually is that happens when a watch is serviced. In this first part we take a closer look at what the watchmaker does first of all, disassembles the watch and cleans it. Come along!

Text and images: Ola Jacobsen

If you are interested in dive watches but are not a watchmaker yourself, there is a good chance that you recognise yourself in the following situation: You hand in a watch for a simple water resistance service, but instead of a text message saying that the watch is ready to be picked up you get a phone call from the watchmaker's.

– Your watch is in need of a service, explains a man with a serious voice.

– Both the movement and the case are in very fine condition, which suggests that it has not been used that much. But it was many years ago that it was serviced and the oils have become too sluggish and in some cases dried out completely.

At first you go a little quiet. Then you swallow quickly and ask what the service costs.

– 7 950 kronor.

All I wanted was to go swimming with my new watch. At the same time I know that the watch in principle has eternal life, as long as it just gets regular service. And apparently it is time for that now. I realise that I have no choice. The watch has ended up with me and I am therefore obliged to take care of it to the best of my ability.

*The writer's 16600, the service object itself.*

But what do you actually get for 7 950 kronor? And what is the difference between servicing the watch at an authorised workshop compared with letting some other watchmaker do the job? There is only one way to find out. We simply followed the watch into the workshop.

Part 1: Disassembly and cleaning

Peter receives us among watchmaker's benches and tools behind the shop. He has worked with Rolex watches for 20 years and begins with a practised hand to take on the watch.

The first step is to detach the link and open the case back.

The rotor is loosened and after that the automatic module, that is the package of wheels and pinions that transports the energy from the rotor to the barrel.

The crown and the stem are taken out and after that the movement can be lifted out of the case.

Peter protects the dial with a special plastic film from Rolex when he removes the hands.

In order not to damage the dial Peter turns the movement upside down so that the hands fall off without touching the dial.

The dial is held in place by two posts that are locked by screws in the side of the movement. By loosening them Peter can take the dial off the movement.

The whole movement, including certain removed movement parts and screws, is placed in baskets to be washed a first time in a dedicated pre-wash machine.

The dial and hands are not washed but get to wait in a small protective box until the movement is ready for them again.

Now it is time to take on the case. Peter starts by taking the gaskets out of the crown tube.

After that the crown tube itself is screwed out of the case with a 21-toothed tool. When the crown tube is gone the helium valve is screwed out as well. If the watch is to be polished you leave the old valve in place during the polishing, so as not to risk gouging out material around the hole.

Peter brings out the case knife. He places the case in a towel puts the knife against under the bezel at 16.30. That is one of the four points where there are recesses in the case that the knife can use to get greater leverage against the bezel. With the edge locked against the case he angles the blade up against the bezel until it comes loose.

Now the crystal is to come off. With the help of a tool the case is pressed down and exposes the crystal, chapter ring and gasket.

In the coming parts we go into how Peter works on with the watch and starts with the service that is so vital for the movement.

Stay tuned!

Servicing a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Part 1: Disassembly and cleaning

Part 1: Disassembly and cleaning

5 luxurious but affordable collector's watches

The story of Rolex Cellini

5 Good Value Rolex Watches

The Reference: Rolex Explorer 14270

Favorites from Kaplans watch auction on the 8th of January

Search

Cart