Rolex Hands-on Watches and Wonders 2026

In the middle of the pulse of Watches and Wonders, Rolex gathers press and industry for one of the fair’s most sought-after meetings. Here everything is about presence and feeling, getting close to the watches, experiencing the weight on the wrist and seeing how the light moves across dials and cases. It is in the direct encounter that this year’s novelties really take shape and where the small adjustments become clear. In this hands on, Mia Litström takes us into Rolex’s world during the fair and guides us through the models that define the year. 

Text and photo: Mia Litström

Oyster Perpetual – 100 years of the Oyster celebrated with colour, gold and unexpected choices

2026 marks a historic moment for Rolex. It is exactly 100 years since the introduction of the Oyster case, the world’s first water-resistant wristwatch, and the celebration quite naturally revolves around the brand’s most stripped-back model, the Oyster Perpetual.

The Oyster Perpetual 41 Rolesor. The combination of steel and yellow gold is in itself nothing new for Rolex, but how it is used here is all the more interesting. Instead of classic two-tone, where the centre links of the bracelet are in gold, Rolex has chosen a more toned-down approach, bezel and crown in gold, the rest in steel. The result is a considerably more subtle interpretation, almost like a discreet nod to luxury rather than a statement. That particular model also carries the clearest traces of the anniversary. On the dial, “Swiss Made” is replaced by “100 years”, the crown is marked with the number 100 and details in green, Rolex’s signature colour, recur in both the minute track and the logo. It is unusually direct for a brand that otherwise prefers subtlety, but here it works surprisingly well.

At the same time Rolex goes in a completely different direction with the Oyster Perpetual 36. Here everything is about colour and playfulness. The new Jubilee dial, where the letters in “ROLEX” form a colourful pattern, is one of the most unexpected releases in a long time. It is graphic, almost poppy and guaranteed to be something that will split enthusiasts into two camps. Either you love it, or you do not at all.

For those who prefer something more dressy than experimental, the Oyster Perpetual is also introduced in solid gold, in the sizes 28 and 34 mm. Here we get to see new stone dials, green in yellow gold and blue in Everose, where indices in natural stone give a more jewellery-like feel. The blue variant, however, was not shown on site. Interestingly, Rolex has chosen a satin finish on case and bracelet, something that softens the expression and makes the overall impression less “flashy” than you might perhaps expect from a watch in solid gold.

Beneath the surface it is business as usual and that is really a strength. The calibres 3230 and 2232 keep delivering proven performance, with up to 70 hours of power reserve and 55 hours respectively, and they are water-resistant to 100 metres. The so-called Superlative Chronometer certification is, however, updated further during 2026, with higher demands on magnetic resistance and durability among other things.

So what is the overall impression?
Rolex uses the 100-year anniversary to stretch the boundaries but without compromising on the core. The Oyster Perpetual is still what it has always been, a clean, robust and timeless watch. But the 2026 collection shows that even the most classic model in the catalogue can carry colour, gold and more personality than we are used to.

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 – The classic that is adjusted in small steps

After the Oyster Perpetual, where Rolex clearly stretches the expression, it is almost expected that the Datejust 2026 takes a more cautious route. But there are novelties here too, albeit in considerably more concentrated form.

The focus lies entirely on a new dial for the Datejust 41, a green lacquered ombré. The ombré effect is in itself nothing new for Rolex, but what makes this year’s version interesting is how it is executed. Instead of previous galvanic treatments, this dial is built entirely on lacquer, where a green base gradually darkens towards black at the outer edge. It is the first time Rolex has used precisely that method for an ombré dial since the concept was reintroduced.
The result is visually strong, but at the same time very familiar. The combination of a green dial, a fluted bezel in white gold and an Oyster bracelet follows a clear Rolex recipe and this is also where part of the criticism lands. To many it feels like a variation rather than an actual novelty.
At the same time it is hard to ignore that this is exactly how the Datejust works. The model has always developed through small adjustments rather than big leaps. That is also what Rolex themselves lean on, the Datejust as a continuous evolution rather than a platform for experiments.

The new dial plays a lot on contrasts. The darker outer edge frames the dial and makes the indices and hands stand out more clearly, while the green tone in the middle gets more depth than on previous variants. It is an effect that works better in reality than in press images.
Beneath the surface, however, it is completely unchanged. The calibre 3235 continues in the Datejust 41, with around 70 hours of power reserve and water-resistant to 100 metres. Here too the model is covered by the updated Superlative Chronometer certification from 2026, with sharpened demands on magnetic resistance and durability among other things.

So what is the overall impression?
The Datejust 2026 is exactly what you can expect, for better and for worse. The new dial adds something visually, but does not change the model fundamentally. To some it will feel cautious, especially in comparison with other releases this year. To others it is precisely that consistency that is the point. Rolex does not seem to want to make the Datejust more than necessary. And perhaps that is also why it keeps working, year after year, with small adjustments that are barely noticeable until you look closer.

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 – New material in an unchanged icon

If the Oyster Perpetual is about stretching the expression and the Datejust about small adjustments, then the Day-Date 2026 is something else. Here the whole novelty lies in the material and Rolex does what they usually do, introduces something new without changing the model fundamentally.

The big number is Jubilee Gold. An 18-carat gold alloy with a tone that moves between yellow, rosé and a more neutral shade. It is not a material that stands out immediately, but rather something that changes depending on light and angle, which also means it can come across as quite anonymous in a photo, but more alive in reality.

Otherwise it is a classic Day-Date 40. President bracelet, fluted bezel and the familiar day and date display. The dial in light green aventurine adds texture rather than colour, and together with baguette-cut diamonds it is more about material and surface than about any clear design change.
This is also where opinions differ. To some it feels like a cautious update where Rolex does exactly what they have always done with the Day-Date, refines rather than changes. To others that is precisely the strength. This is a model that should not be reinterpreted, only developed in small steps.
Beneath the surface everything is the same, with the calibre 3255 and updated certification for 2026. Stable, predictable and completely in line with what you expect. The overall impression is therefore quite clear, the Day-Date is not changed here, it is adjusted. And the question is really whether Rolex even wants anything else.

Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona –Small adjustments that are noticeable anyway

The Daytona is one of the models where Rolex moves most cautiously, which means that even minor changes get quite a lot of attention. 2026 is no exception.

At first glance it is about a new dial. But as is often the case with the Daytona, it is the details that make the difference. The new variant is built on a white enamelled dial, where the slightly softer tone differs from previous more chalk-white or lacquered alternatives. Together with contrasting subdials the expression becomes cleaner, almost more toned down than previous generations.

The bezel has also been adjusted. The tachymeter scale has been given a slightly different layout, with clearer separation between the markings and a design that leans faintly towards older Daytona references. It is nothing that changes the whole drastically, but enough to feel new to someone who is used to the model.

One detail that keeps prompting discussion is the open case back. Rolex has long stuck to closed cases in the sports models, and even if this is not entirely new any more, it is still something that divides opinion. To some it adds a dimension, the possibility of seeing the calibre 4131, while others argue that it goes against the Daytona as a tool watch. The calibre 4131 itself is otherwise unchanged. It has 72 hours of power reserve and the stability you expect. Here too the model is covered by the updated certification for 2026.

This is also where part of the criticism lands. To many it feels as though Rolex is continuing on the same track, small, controlled changes rather than something that really challenges the model. At the same time it is hard to argue against the result. The Daytona works precisely because it is not changed unnecessarily. The overall impression is therefore quite clear, this is an update for someone who is already in the know. To the broader audience it looks like yet another Daytona. To someone who looks closer there are, however, enough adjustments to make it relevant. And perhaps that is exactly where the Daytona finds itself today, in a position where Rolex does not need to do more than that.

Yacht-Master II – function meets user-friendliness

The Yacht-Master II has always been one of Rolex’s most technical models, but also one of the most difficult to use. With this year’s update Rolex is trying to change that. The countdown function has been made more intuitive and easier to use. The programming is simpler and the legibility improved. That makes the model more accessible, without compromising on its functional core.

This is an important signal. Rolex shows that even their most complex models have to be adapted to how they are actually used. The model is released in steel and solid gold.