New-old in lovely design. Audemars Piguet [Re]master01

By: Britta Rossander

Audemars Piguet launches [Re] master01, an automatic chronograph inspired by a chronograph watch from 1943 that was rarely beautifully and harmoniously shaped in its form. Eqotime of course takes a look.

During the period from the 1930s to the 1950s, Audemars Piguet did not produce that many chronographs. According to their ledger it was only 307 examples and the one that forms the basis for [Re] master01 is one of the most interesting. An original was sold at Phillips a few years ago and it was bought by AP and that is when the idea for the new watch is said to have come up.

Only three wristwatches in steel and gold with the design in question were sold in 1943. The watch was 36 mm in diameter, which was quite big for that time when most chronograph watches had a diameter of 31 to 34 mm.

Audemars is after all opening its new museum during the year and there you will be able to see it. NOTE! that because of Corona the inauguration of the museum has been moved from the end of April to sometime later in the autumn.

–The new watch is not a ”remake” of a vintage watch but a modern upgrade of an earlier watch even if it is very similar to the original, says Michael Friedman, Audemars Piguet's head of complications.

I think it is meant to be perceived as a nod to all the serious collectors of AP who got annoyed at the Code 11.59 when it arrived and that HQ wants to show that it thinks tradition is important…

Honey dial

The model has the two-coloured case, now as then, and ”tear drops”-shaped strap attachments. The outer case is in steel and the case ring as well as the crown and pushers in rose gold. The dial has a slightly stronger honey tone than its predecessor but the chronograph's hands and tachymeter scale are, as tradition dictates, printed in blue. The display of the chronograph's minutes also has the red marking for the 4/5 indication above the 15-minute marking at nine o'clock inside the 30-minute counter – a special one ordered by AP's third generation at the helm, Jacques-Louis Audemars (1910 – 2003). He wanted to be able to see half time for his favourite sport football.

Below twelve o'clock sits the old logo with the name of the city of Geneva. AP had a workshop there from 1885 to the middle of the 1970s.

The numerals are Art Deco-inspired numerals and that the watch has grown and become 40 mm in diameter gives better legibility and therefore suits modern use better is a plus.

The sapphire crystal back reveals the chronograph mechanism and the oscillating weight in 22 carat rose gold that matches the case ring. It is compact and decorated with ”Clous de Paris” – a decoration technique that has been used since the 1950s by Audemars Piguet and something that many brands have used for dials.

The movement

The calibre is the in-house 4409, a modified version of the one that sits in one of last year's most talked about watch, the Code 11.59 chronograph, but without a date.

The reference is 26595SR.OO.A032VE.01 and the number of parts in the movement is 349, the case has water resistance to 20 metres, the power reserve 70 hours and straps are available in alligator or calfskin

[Re] master01 is made in a limited edition of 500 examples that unfortunately will only be sold in the brand's own boutiques when they open again after the coronavirus's rampage. The price will be just over 50 000 CHF + taxes.