Cartier's novelties 2024

Text/photo: Aleksandar Mladenovic

Cartier has yet another strong year with many interesting novelties that were presented during Watches & Wonders 2024. We go through many of the novelties where the focus this year is on new Tortues from the Cartier Privé collection.

Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir

As usual there is great curiosity around what novelties Cartier presents in its ”Privé” collection. Last year the new Tank Normale was presented and this year it was time for another classic model to be updated, namely the Tortue.

They follow the previous concept with partly some ”simple” models, i.e. models without complications but also with complications. In this case it became a so-called Monopoussoir, or monopusher chronograph, which we have previously seen in their CPCP collection and actually already at the end of the 1920s when the model was introduced for the first time.

The model is presented in two different case materials, 18k yellow gold and in platinum. They measure 34,8 x 43,7 mm and are 10,2 mm thick. The dials are a little different between the models where the version in platinum has a silvery opaline dial with applied Roman numerals in metallic as indexes and the one in gold has a more cream-coloured dial with black indexes. Common to both however are the blued hands in Breguet style.

The movement is new and made in-house – calibre 1928 MC can naturally be admired through the case back's sapphire crystal. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and it has 44 hours power reserve. Unlike the movement in the CPCP versions, this movement is designed after the curved case.

Both versions are limited to 200 examples each and the price is 46 000 and 53 000 euro respectively.

Cartier Privé Tortue

The second model in the Tortue series is a so-called ”time only” that is released in 3 versions: 2 in platinum with or without sprinkles and one in yellow gold.

The cases are somewhat smaller than the sibling with chronograph and measure 32,9 x 41,4 mm with a thickness of 7,2 mm. The dials follow the same track as the chronographs and the movement is a manual calibre 430 MC that we recognise from several other models.

Here too the models are limited to 200 examples each apart from the one with stones in platinum which is limited to 50 examples.

The price is 27 900 euro in yellow gold, 32 100 and 53 100 euro respectively in platinum without and with stones.

Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind

An unexpected but very interesting release was the Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind. At a quick glance you could mistake it for any Santos Dumont at all, sort of. But there is an interesting detail – the dial is mirrored and the watch runs ”backwards”.

It is actually not the first time Cartier makes a watch that runs backwards. The fact is that a collector on Instagram by the name TimeByRaf has a Santos Galbée that does exactly the same thing. Probably a ”piece unique” that was made sometime in the 90s.

The case is made in platinum and measures, like previous versions of the Santos Dumont in size large, 31,5 x 43,5 mm with a thickness of 7,3 mm. The dial is made of stone, carnelian, and has a beautiful depth to it.

The movement is manual, calibre 230 MC, which is a reworked version of the 430 MC.

Limited to 200 ex, has no price in euro but in Swiss francs it is 37 000.

Cartier Santos Dumont Lacquer

They also release 3 new Santos Dumont with lacquered cases. Unlike previous years they now come with sunburst dials with applied Arabic numerals as indexes. Green dial and lacquer for the version in platinum, grey dial and lacquer for the version in yellow gold and blue-green dial and lacquer for the version in rose gold.

We got a little better acquainted with the version in yellow gold and it looked really good. Otherwise the same dimensions apply as on the Rewind, though with ”normal” movements.

The one in platinum is limited to 200 ex while those in gold are not limited to a certain number. The price will have to be in dollars this time, $15 600i in gold and $21 900 in platinum.

Cartier Panthère Large & Cartier Tank Louis ”Tuxedo”

In conclusion two interesting novelties (there were many more, e.g. a Santos in steel with Dual Time and loads of pleasant watches inspired by the animal kingdom with gemstones) – Cartier Panthère in the new size Large as well as a Cartier Tank Louis in size Small with ”Tuxedo” dial.

We will have to come back with exact details about the watches' dimensions, above all as regards the new Panthère which comes in a completely new size. It sits really well on a male wrist and we notice that more and more men take an interest in the slightly more feminine appearance that the Panthère has compared with the slightly tougher Santos.

As regards the Tank Louis ”Tuxedo”, it is perhaps the ultimate tuxedo watch? But of course it also works perfectly with ”the little black dress”.

Read more about the watches at Cartier