Hands-on: Classic treats and fun surprises in Grand Seiko's autumn release
When Grand Seiko recently showed the autumn novelties, an unusually broad field met us. The collection contained most of what a watch lover could wish for. From the sporty to the dressy by way of GMT complications and precious metals. Now that most of the autumn novelties from Grand Seiko have also found their way into the shops, we let Eqotime's seiko-mad photographer Ola Jacobsen pick out his gems.
Text and photo: Ola Jacobsen
When Grand Seiko recently unveiled the autumn's news, it was an unusually broad starting field that met us. The collection contained most of what a watch lover could wish for. From the sporty to the dressy via GMT complications and precious metals. Now that most of the autumn's news from Grand Seiko has also found its way into stores, we let Eqotime's seiko-crazy photographer Ola Jacobsen pick out his favourites.
It's clear that the Japanese premium manufacturer really tries to show off as much of itself as possible to as many as possible. Something that has perhaps become extra important after the brand-wise separation from parent company Seiko a few years ago. Among the news is everything from vintage-inspired dress watches, gold and diamonds to automatic GMT sports watches and hefty divers.
Diver: Updated Spring Drive divers SBGA461 and SBGA463
Grand Seiko updates its classic diver with a Spring Drive movement. The model comes in two versions, in steel and titanium case respectively. Visually the update consists of two news. The first is the new blob of lume to the right of the date window. Something that both Grand Seiko and Seiko have rolled out lately on new and updated diver watches. This against the backdrop of the certification as precisely diver watches.
The second is that all 60 minute markers are included on the rotating ring. On the earlier ones the numbers at the 10-minute markers were allowed to spread out over the space where the minute markers for, for example, 9 and 11 should be. Now the 10-minute markers have been reduced in size. Instead they've had to creep up a bit on the rotating ring to make room for all 59 dots and dashes.
For me the steel version is a nicer variant of a modern Sea-Dweller. The titanium version, however, is something extra. The lightness, the metal's slightly darker shifts and the logotype in gold simply make it a more grande Grand Seiko.
Facts: Case of steel or titanium, diameter 44.2 millimetres, thickness 14 millimetres, water resistance 200 metres, automatic Spring Drive movement (Grand Seiko 9R65) with 72 hours power reserve.
The dress watch that ticks all the boxes: Grand Seiko SBGW267 (white) and SBGW269 (brown)
With its perfect size, hand-wound movement, classic Grand Seiko discreet linen structure on the dial and open back, the watch duo is a real hit. If I weren't so hopelessly stuck in the diver swamp myself, I would have a hard time choosing which of the versions I would take. Really dark chocolate or old-fashioned vanilla.
Facts: Steel case, diameter 37.3 millimetres, thickness 11.6 millimetres, manual movement (Grand Seiko 9S64) with 72 hours power reserve, crystal back.
Well-timed automatic GMT watches: Grand Seiko SBGM245 (blue) and SBGM247 (green)
With their blue and green dials, 40.5 millimetres diameter and automatic movements, SBGM245 and SBGM247 hit the spot exactly. Both when it comes to the trend for slightly neater sports watches and the colour trends of blue and green. Especially the green dial attracted a lot of attention when it was shown in Stockholm. The low-saturated colour and the measured sunburst effect are sober and elegant against the finely brushed steel.
Facts: Steel case, diameter 40.5 millimetres, thickness 14.4 millimetres, automatic movement (Grand Seiko 9S66) with 72 hours power reserve., GMT.
A gold watch that melts a diver's heart of titanium: Grand Seiko SBGY008
Some would say that if you as a diver nerd suddenly appreciate precious metal and stones, you've just reached the next circle of your watch interest. But the thin gold-tongued hand-hammered Spring Drive watch with diamond-set case sides awakens such an unambiguous covetousness that I want to claim it's about something else. This is not just any rose gold and diamond watch. Grand Seiko SBGY008 shares its thin case and dial structure with the popular faintly blue-shimmering SBGY007. But it's the movement that completes this creation. Hand-hammered, thin, with 72 hours power reserve and with the power reserve indicator on the back, this is one of the finest.
Facts: Case of rose gold, diameter 38.5 millimetres, thickness 10.2 millimetres, manual Spring Drive movement (Grand Seiko 9R31) with 72 hours power reserve
