Watches and Wonders 2026: Patek Philippe shows the breadth – from sports icons to haute horlogerie

At Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe shows why they still define the top layer of haute horlogerie. From a reinterpretation of sporty lines to classic complications and extremely advanced grand complications – this year's lineup is both broad and clearly strategic.

Cubitus takes the next step – sport meets complication

The new Cubitus line continues to develop and establish itself as Patek's most modern expression. With its distinctive square case – a mix of circle, square and octagon, it is a clear departure from traditional shapes.
In this year's version we see the model take a step up in the complication hierarchy, with a perpetual calendar and more open, technically exposed dials. The design remains the core, however: horizontally embossed dials and an architectural feel that places the Cubitus between the Nautilus and something entirely new.
This is no longer just a “new collection” – it is a clear direction.

Nautilus 50 years – back to the roots (and up a level)

his is considerably more interesting than it first looks – because Patek goes straight into the archive.
The new references 5810/1G-001 and 5810G-001 are in practice modern “Jumbo” interpretations, but with a clear historical grip:
– no seconds hand
– no date function

That is exactly the type of purity we saw in the original, ref. 3700.
The case measures 41 mm in diameter and only 6.9 mm in thickness, which means it still sits extremely slim on the wrist. But what really changes the feel is the material: white gold.

This is Patek strategy 2026:
You get the same iconic design – but now in a considerably more exclusive package.
The white gold does two things at the same time:
Gives a noticeable weight and premium feel on the wrist
Keeps the visual expression of steel
It is discreet luxury at the absolute top level.

The dial continues in the classic blue tone with sunburst finish under PVD treatment, together with the Nautilus' characteristic horizontal relief. The indices in white gold with Super-LumiNova keep the whole thing functional – but this is not a tool watch any more. This is a statement.

But the perhaps most interesting release is actually smaller.
Reference 5610/1P-001 is a clear nod to the old midsize models (ref. 3800), but upgraded to a completely different level.
– 38 mm diameter
– 6.9 mm thickness
– platinum case and fully integrated bracelet
And just like the larger models:
– no seconds hand
– no date
This is unusual for modern Patek. For a long time they have been moving towards larger sizes and more functions – here they do the opposite.
On top of that we get the classic Patek detail:
a set diamond in the case's “ear” at 9 o'clock, discreet but clear for the one who knows.
The dial is blue with the same sunburst + PVD + horizontal relief, which ties the whole anniversary theme together. But the proportions do something to the watch – it feels more elegant, more balanced and almost more “true Nautilus” than the larger models.
And in platinum… this is heavy. For real.

The Patek Philippe World Time Reference 7129J-001

The new Patek Philippe World Time ref. 7129J-001 shows how the brand can take one of its most classic complications and give it an unexpected visual lift. The case measures 36 mm in fully polished yellow gold with a slim profile of 9.18 mm, which places the model clearly in the more elegant segment – but it is the dial that steals all the attention.

The deep red “Carmine” lacquer is combined with a handmade guilloché in a basket pattern in the centre, which gives both depth and texture. The gold-coloured hands and arrow-shaped indices keep the legibility sharp, while the classic world time ring is complemented by a 24-hour disc in two tones – red for day and rhodium grey for night, with sun and moon symbols as subtle but effective details. The whole is tied together by a matching red alligator strap with a folding clasp in yellow gold.

Under the hood sits the well-proven automatic calibre 240 HU, an ultra-thin movement of only 3.88 mm with an eccentric micro-rotor in 22K gold. With its 239 components and a power reserve of around 48 hours it is as technically refined as it is practical. The classic world time function is controlled via the push button at 10 o'clock, which makes all the displays jump in sync when you change time zone – without affecting the precision. It is precisely this type of considered mechanics that makes Patek's world timers the reference point in the category.

Golden Ellipse

atek Philippe continues to refine one of its most distinctive dress watches with two new references in white gold: Ref. 5738G-001in the larger “Jumbo” format (34.5 × 39.5 mm) and a return for Ref. 3738 in more classic proportions (31.1 × 35.6 mm).

Common to both models is the new olive green sunburst dial, which adds a contemporary depth without breaking with the Golden Ellipse’s DNA. The case, inspired by the golden ratio, keeps its iconic balance – a shape that has been essentially unchanged since the introduction in 1968.

Applied baton indices and slender hands in white gold keep the expression strict and minimalist, exactly as it should be. And with a thickness of just under 6 mm the Golden Ellipse continues to be a textbook example of how Patek combines ultra-thin watchmaking art with timeless design.

Annual Calendar

The Annual Calendar is one of the complications that most closely define Patek Philippe, and this year they continue to build further on two of their most established references: 5396R-016 and 4946G-001.

Ref. 5396 has over the past 20 years become something of a backbone in the collection – so much so that the model is often seen as a wall clock in Patek's own boutiques. The new version in rose gold with a sand beige sunburst dial is a more classic, almost nostalgic expression. The tone-on-tone feel brings older references such as the 3940 to mind, but here with a clearly modern finish: faceted dauphine hands, applied indices in obus style and the characteristic layout with day and month in a double window, date at 6 o'clock as well as moon phase and 24-hour indicator.
At the same time Ref. 4946G-001 offers a more contemporary interpretation. Here we get a 38 mm white gold case combined with a blue-grey dial with a so-called “Shantung” pattern, which gives a more textile and lively impression. The layout is more compact, with three subdials close to the centre and the date at 6 o'clock. Inside sits calibre 26-330 S QA LU, with 4 Hz frequency, around 45 hours of power reserve and a central rotor in 21K gold. The functions are adjusted via the crown and discreet pushers in the case – a classic Patek solution.

Together the two models show why the Annual Calendar is still one of the brand's strongest signatures: a complication that combines practical function with timeless design – regardless of whether the expression leans towards the classic or the more modern.

7047G-001 – minute repeater in a modern guise

Ref. 7047G-001 Patek Philippe shows that even their most classic complication – the minute repeater – can be given an unexpectedly modern expression. Here the highest watchmaking meets a more urban aesthetic, where the 38 mm white gold case in classic Calatrava shape is contrasted by a clearly contemporary dial.

The navy blue dial has a centrally embossed “carbon” pattern that gives structure and depth, while the applied numerals in white gold with luminova keep the legibility high. What really breaks it up are the orange details – from the lacquered small seconds hand to triangle-shaped hour markers and the stitching on the textured, composite-based strap.

The result is an unusual combination: one of Patek's most sophisticated complications, presented in a design that leans more towards sport and contemporary expression than traditional dress. It is a clear sign that the minute repeater is no longer reserved solely for strictly classic watches – but can also work in a more modern context.

Watches and Wonders 2026: Patek Philippe shows the breadth – from sports icons to haute horlogerie

With Ref. 6105G-001, Patek Philippe takes its Celestial concept in a more futuristic direction. The massive 47 mm case in white gold is inspired by space modules, with a mix of polished and sandblasted surfaces as well as structured details on the sides and back cover of the case – a clear departure from traditional dress design.

The dial, protected by sapphire crystal, shows an exact rendering of the night sky over Geneva, where an elliptical zone marks the part of the sky that is visible from the same latitude. Here the movement of the stars, the phases of the moon and its orbit are visualised in real time – a complication that brings astronomical instruments more to mind than wristwatches.

Beyond this the model offers a display of sunrise and sunset, as well as functions for adjusting between summer and winter time. The advanced movement – based on calibre 240 C LU CL LCSO with a micro-rotor in 22K gold – took over five years to develop and resulted in several patent applications. The date is shown discreetly via a peripheral disc, marked with a red hand, while skeletonised hands in white gold keep the time at the centre.
The whole is tied together by an integrated black composite strap with an X pattern. The result is one of the most technically and visually ambitious models in this year's lineup – where Patek Philippe literally places the universe on the wrist.