The Timeline: News from Ming, Zenith & Girard Perregaux

This week's edition of The Timeline spans the entire horological spectrum. From the first joint project between two of the alternative watch world's most creative forces, via a Japanese interpretation of one of history's most award-winning chronometer movements, to Girard-Perregaux's continued refinement of one of the sports watch genre's true originals. Here are three news items that show that traditional craftsmanship is still at the centre, even when the expressions differ radically.

MING x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning

When two of the founders behind Alternative Horological Alliance join their creative forces, the result is something out of the ordinary. MING x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning is the first watch project where Horologer MING and the American guilloché master Josh Shapiro stand as equal senders.

The project begins in Los Angeles where every dial is made of grade 2 titanium and hand-guillochéd on a traditional rose engine lathe. The special pattern, called ”Lightning Guilloché”, is used here for the first time by Shapiro in a wristwatch and creates an almost electric feeling of movement across the dial's surface.

The dials are then sent to Kuala Lumpur where Ming Thein personally heat-treats every example with a handheld gas torch. The result is a dramatic colour palette of blue, purple and golden tones – entirely without colour, lacquer or surface treatment. Only heat, timing and experience decide the final result.

The process is far from simple. Only about a third of all dials survive the whole production, which makes every finished watch unique. Just like lightning, it never strikes the same way twice.

The watch measures 38 mm in diameter and is driven by the hand-wound MING calibre SW210.M1, based on the Sellita SW210. The case is made of steel and is combined with sapphire crystal front and back as well as 100 metres of water resistance.

Zenith x Naoya Hida G.F.J. Calibre 13

Zenith continues to explore its historical heritage and now presents one of the year's most unexpected collaborations. Together with the Japanese manufacturer Naoya Hida Co., G.F.J. Calibre 135 is launched, an exclusive series of only ten examples.

At the centre stands the legendary Calibre 135, the movement that during the golden age of the observatory competitions collected more awards than any other Zenith movement. Now it is resurrected in a new guise where Naoya Hida's characteristically restrained design language gets to set the tone.

The case measures 39 mm and is made of platinum. The dial is executed in solid silver where all the texts and logotypes have been hand-engraved and then filled with blue Japanese urushi lacquer – a detail that elegantly unites Swiss precision with Japanese craftsmanship.

The watch also comes with three different straps: Himeji Kurozan leather, Wagyu leather and a strap in Japanese Kaihara denim. The combination of a historical competition movement and Naoya Hida's uncompromising design philosophy makes this one of the year's most interesting limited editions.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Collection

After last year's 50th anniversary of the Laureato, Girard-Perregaux now chooses to make the Laureato Fifty a permanent part of the collection. At the same time new references and an entirely new case size of 36 mm are introduced.

The Laureato is one of the few integrated sports watches that can show an unbroken history since its introduction in 1975. The characteristic combination of an octagonal bezel, round base and integrated link has become one of the model's most recognisable features.

The new generation is offered in both 39 mm and 36 mm and keeps the slim profile of only 9.8 mm. All the models are water resistant to 150 metres and are driven by the in-house developed automatic movement GP4800 with a silicon lever escapement, variable inertia balance and 60 hours of power reserve.

Among the news, above all the blue enamel dial in 39 mm stands out. Enamel is unusual within the sports watch segment, but Girard-Perregaux manages to give its classic Clous de Paris structure an entirely new depth through the transparent blue surface that shifts depending on the light.

The collection is completed by models with rose gold coloured dials in both 36 and 39 mm as well as a 36 mm version with a silver coloured dial and a diamond-set bezel. All are delivered on the integrated steel bracelet that has now been given micro adjustment in the clasp for increased comfort.

The Laureato Fifty is not about inventing the model anew. Instead Girard-Perregaux refines an already strong concept through more advanced dials, modern movement technology and improved wearing comfort – an approach that feels entirely right for one of the sports watch world's true classics.