The Timeline: News from, Bvlgari, Dennison, Hublot, Doxa, Oris, TAG Heuer, Zenith, Grand Seiko & Breguet

In connection with Geneva Watch Days more news was also released, some brands were on site others not. We have gathered some of the most interesting news from Bvlgari, Dennison, Hublot Doxa, Oris and TAG Heuer.

Text: Andreas Johansson

Bvlgari – Art, marble and bronze

Bvlgari showed once again that the Octo Finissimo is more than just a model series, it is a platform for experiments and new ideas. The collaboration with the Korean-Japanese artist Lee Ufan resulted in an Octo Finissimo where the dial works as a mirror, with the artist's signature discreetly placed on the side of the case. The extremely thin profile and the minimalist design make the collaboration feel as much art object as watch. Even more spectacular is the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble. Here a deep blue marble dial meets a platinum case and a tourbillon. The contrast between the eternal in the stone and the motion-filled in the mechanics is something that really stands out. The watch is limited and will surely quickly become a collector's item. And then something completely new: the Octo Finissimo Bronzo. For the first time Bvlgari brings bronze into the collection, a material that ages and develops a patina over time. The raw and living material gives a new dimension to the architecturally austere Octo design.

Dennison – Dual Time 

British Dennison goes its own way and presented the ALD Dual Time, a model that feels like a trip back in time to the glamorous expression of the seventies. The watch has two separate movements, both quartz, each driving its own part of the dial. These are moreover made in so-called "split-stone", which means that two different types of stone meet in a horizontal division. The result is a watch that is both elegant and playful, with colour combinations like bloodstone against lapis lazuli or tiger's eye against black marble.

Hublot – Classic Fusion Champions League

Hublot continues its long-running collaboration with UEFA and this year presented the Classic Fusion Chronograph UEFA Champions League Titanium in 42 millimetres. The case in brushed and polished titanium gives a sporty elegance, while the blue dial and the discreet Champions League logo recall the intensity of the game in Europe's biggest arenas. Inside ticks Hublot's own HUB1153 movement, an automatic chronograph calibre with roughly 42 hours of power reserve, which drives both the timing and the classic two-register layout. The result is a watch that ties luxury watchmaking together with the world of football, where as much feeling as precision is at the centre. It is a wristwatch that is just as happily worn in the stands as in the boardroom, and that strengthens Hublot's position as the obvious link between football and the watch industry.

Doxa – SUB 750T 

Doxa relaunched a classic that many enthusiasts have long been waiting for: the SUB 750T. The original model has always had a special place in the history of dive watches, and now it is back in a modernised version. The case still measures 45 millimetres, but is considerably thinner than before and therefore much more wearable day to day. The watch is launched in eight colours – from Doxa's iconic orange to more toned-down alternatives like sea blue and green. With a robust construction and the reliable Sellita SW300 movement the SUB 750T is as ready for the depths of the sea as for everyday adventures.

Oris – ProPilot Altimeter, Mission Control & Big Crown Calibre 113

Oris showed two pieces of news that show the brand's breadth. Together with Bamford Watch Department they created the ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control”. It is an altitude-measuring watch with a case in carbon fibre alloy and a design that feels both futuristic and instrumental. The clear altimeter scale gives an immediate sense that the watch belongs as much in the cockpit as on the wrist. Only 250 pieces will be made. Alongside this Oris returned to its own heritage and presented a new Big Crown Calibre 113. The mechanical calendar movement, previously seen in older models, has now been given new life in a colourful and robust 43 mm case. It is a reminder that Oris can combine playful design with genuine technical substance.

TAG Heuer – TH-Carbonspring & Carrera Astronomer

At TAG Heuer the technology was at the centre. The brand launched the TH-Carbonspring, a completely new hairspring in carbon, and placed it in two powerful models. The Monaco Flyback Chronograph comes in forged carbon fibre and keeps its classic square silhouette but with a completely new heart. It is complemented by the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, a 44 mm large watch that combines a tourbillon with the Carbonspring and sets a new technical bar for sports watches.

As a contrast to these high-tech releases TAG Heuer also showed off the Carrera Astronomer. Here the moon phase is at the centre, packaged in three variants with a cosmic aesthetic. The model ties in with the brand's historical connection to astronomical complications, but in a completely new form.

Zenith × USM Modular Furniture 

Zenith took an unexpected step and collaborated with the Swiss furniture icon USM Modular Furniture. The result is the DEFY Chronograph USM, a watch that carries the same sense of modular functionality as the classic USM furniture. The case has an industrially inspired aesthetic with a brushed finish and a clear architectural structure. The dial mirrors USM's design language through colours and graphic details, where minimalism meets technical complexity. Inside works Zenith's well-known El Primero chronograph movement, a symbol of precision and history, but here set in a new context that brings modern design to mind rather than traditional watchmaking romance. The collaboration feels both self-assured and innovative, proof that Zenith dares to put its watch icon in dialogue with another Swiss design classic.

Grand Seiko, SLGC006 & SLGW007

SLGC006G – “Tentagraph” Chronograph
Grand Seiko continues its exploration of Japanese aesthetics with the SLGC006G, a limited edition of 300 pieces. The watch is built on Caliber 9SC5 and delivers a strong power reserve of around 72 hours. The watch combines high-intensity titanium, ceramic and 18-k gold, and has a measures 43,2 mm in diameter and 15,4 mm in thickness. The dial is inspired by Mt. Iwate, with a pattern that captures the structure of the mountain ridge, and colour tones that resemble the light of the morning sun. Price: approx. SEK 261 500.

SLGW007G – Hi-Beat
The SLGW007G is a more elegant dress model variant in Evolution 9 style. Distinctive is the manual winding via Caliber 9SA4 which has a full 80 hours of power reserve, impressive for a manual watch. The stainless case is thin (9,95 mm), and the dial in dark blue has a textured pattern inspired by white birch under moonlight. The case is 38,6 mm in diameter and is delivered with a leather strap that matches the colour of the dial. Price: approx. SEK 116 000

Breguet – Marine Hora Mundi 5555

Breguet celebrates its 250th anniversary with a new version of its Marine Hora Mundi 5555, an exclusive model limited to 50 pieces. Inside ticks the automatic movement calibre 77F1, with 55 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 4 Hz. The “instant jump” function means that with the press of a button you can switch between two time zones — and at the same time both the date and the day/night indicator are adjusted. The watch has a case in 18K Breguet gold, measuring approx. 43,9 mm in diameter and 13,8 mm thick. The dial is built in two layers: a guilloché decoration on gold with a gradient from light blue to dark blue as the background, inspired by sky vs sea, and an overlying layer in sapphire crystal with hand-painted Grand Feu enamel for the contours of the continents plus clouds and spectacular city lights that light up at night thanks to a special phosphorescent enamel.