The Timeline: News from Bermont, Omega, Tudor, Panerai, Girard-Perregaux, Seiko, & Glashütte Original

The holiday is starting to draw to a close for many, but the watch world has hardly taken time off. During the summer the news has continued to roll in, and we have seen a series of interesting releases from several of the most influential manufacturers and now at the end of the summer several novelties have arrived. 

Text: Andreas Johansson

Bremont Supermarine 500M, Ceramic

The British brand Bremont has in recent years taken considerable strides in its development. With a new factory in Henley-on-Thames and an increased focus on in-house production it feels as though Bremont has found a new identity. Now they take the next step in their Supermarine series and do it with a new version in full ceramic. 

Bremont has always had a clear DNA. Military influences, robust construction and a hefty dose of British charm. The new Supermarine 500M builds further on that recipe – but in a new material. The case is manufactured in black, hardened zirconium ceramic and measures 43 mm in diameter. The water resistance? As the name suggests, 500 metres. The dial is polar white, which creates a good-looking contrast against the black case and the bezel. The indexes are applied and filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the hands which have also been given clear shapes for maximum legibility in darkness. This is a tool watch for real, but without feeling boring. Inside ticks Bremont's new automatic ENG300 series, a movement that is manufactured, tested and adjusted in their own facilities in Great Britain. The movement is COSC certified and offers 65 hours of power reserve as well as antimagnetic protection.

The Bremont Supermarine 500M Black Ceramic is available now and has a list price of 6 500 GBP, which corresponds to around 90 000 kronor. It is not an entry-level watch, but for the one who wants something other than the usual offering of divers in steel, this can be an exciting alternative.

Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph, Plasma Purple & Fusion Lime

It is no secret that we at the editorial office like Glashütte Original's Seventies series. The integrated link, the retro case and the generous date display have become something of a cult favourite – especially among those who are looking for something a little more niche than the classic sports chronographs. Now Glashütte Original takes the colour play to a new level with two limited versions: Plasma Purple and Fusion Lime. The German brand has previously shown that they dare to stand out when it comes to colour choices, think turquoise, sunset orange or the acclaimed "Ocean Breeze" version. But this? This is something completely different.

Plasma Purple is, just as the name suggests, a deep and shimmering purple colour that almost gives the dial a metallic glow in the right light. Fusion Lime is perhaps even more daring, a tart neon green tone that feels both retro and futuristic at the same time. These are colours one either loves or does not understand at all and we like it. The case measures 40 x 40 mm, is manufactured in stainless steel and has both brushed and polished surfaces. The integrated link is stable and supple and suits the design perfectly. Both colour versions are limited to 100 examples each, which makes them a collector-friendly release. 

Both Plasma Purple and Fusion Lime cost 15 000 euro, which places them in the same segment as previous limited versions in the Seventies series. It is not a cheap watch, but for the one who is looking for something technically solid, good-looking and crazily fun it is a hard release to ignore.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M – Turquoise

Omega continues to explore the colour palette in its popular Aqua Terra 150M series – and now they have found the right thing in the summer wardrobe. The new version comes with a turquoise dial, ceramic bezel and rubber bracelet – a clear sign that the Aqua Terra is moving closer to the sports segment, but with retained elegance. We have previously seen several coloured dials within the Aqua Terra family, among other things in light pink, blue and green, but this new turquoise version is without doubt the most playful so far. The dial has been given a glossy, sun-brushed finish that reflects the light nicely and creates a feeling of depth, despite the simple layout.

The watch comes in two sizes: 41 mm and 38 mm, both in stainless steel and with the same turquoise theme. The case shape is familiar, asymmetrical and sportily ground, but it is the colours and the material combination that make the model feel completely new. Inside we find Omega's calibre 8900 (41 mm) and calibre 8800 (38 mm) – both METAS certified Master Chronometer movements with 60 hours of power reserve, antimagnetic properties and well-known reliability. The watches start rolling out at retailers during late summer and are likely to become popular among both Aqua Terra fans and new Omega customers.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin 

The collaboration between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin has already resulted in several interesting models but the new Laureato Skeleton Aston Martin Edition in black ceramic takes the whole thing to a new level. Here technical finesse, racing DNA and a dose of British coolness are combined in a watch that feels both futuristic and timeless. The new model builds on the Laureato Skeleton with a case of 42 mm, but this time manufactured in all-black ceramic. That makes the watch both lighter and more resistant to scratches, and in addition gives a completely different expression than previous versions in steel or titanium. The skeletonised movement is GP's own calibre GP01800-216, and it is worked through down to the smallest detail. The bridges have a dark, PVD-treated finish and the shape has been inspired by Aston Martin's classic grille design. They have managed to create a movement that feels as industrial as it is exclusive.

The link too is manufactured in black ceramic, with brushed and polished surfaces that catch the light in an effective way. This is not a discreet watch – but it is not loud either. Rather self-assured.

The model is limited to 150 examples, which makes it exclusive , but not unattainable. It has a clear identity but is still true to the Laureato family's DNA with its octagonal shapes, integrated link and thinner profile compared with many other sports watches. Girard-Perregaux Laureato.

Panerai Submersible Marina Militare 

When Panerai launches new models with a Marina Militare connection, we know that it usually involves substantial pieces with a clear military attitude. The new models PAM01697 and PAM01698 are no exception. On the contrary. With inspiration taken from the Italian navy's air division Aviazione Navale, Panerai delivers two modern tool watches ready for sea, air and land alike.

First out is the PAM01697, which comes in a 44 mm large case manufactured in Carbotech – Panerai's own developed carbon fibre composite that is both light and extremely hard-wearing. The matte black case has an organic pattern, which makes every example unique. The dial is also dark, with blue details on the seconds hand and the text "Marina Militare" as a good-looking contrast. The military green rubber strap also reinforces the tactical expression. The watch is water resistant to 300 metres and has Panerai's classic crown guard at 3 o'clock. Inside sits calibre P.900, an automatic movement with 3 days of power reserve – and nowadays Panerai's standard calibre in the Submersible family.

For the one who wants a similar look but in a more classic material there is the PAM01698, which also measures 44 mm but has a case in sandblasted titanium. It is lighter than one thinks – and sits very balanced on the wrist. The dial here goes in a blue tone inspired by the uniforms from Aviazione Navale, with a matching blue rubber strap. The specifications are otherwise identical: the same movement, the same water resistance and the same functionality. What differs is the choice of material and the visual impression – where the PAM01698 is experienced as somewhat more "civilised", while the Carbotech version is pure military feeling.

Panerai often flirts with its historical heritage within the Italian navy – but this time the connection is unusually clear. Every watch is delivered with a military-inspired case, and the model pays tribute to Aviazione Navale's history since 1913. For collectors and Paneristi these are details that mean something.

Price and availability

– PAM01697 (Carbotech): approx. 17 000 euro

– PAM01698 (Titanium): approx. 14 300 euro

Both models are already available at Panerai boutiques and selected retailers. It is not a limited edition – but considering the interest around the Marina Militare models they are not likely to be left on the shelves for particularly long.

Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi 

We have seen a lot from Seiko over the years – collaborations with designers, game series, even anime. But this year's perhaps most unexpected collaboration comes from a completely different direction: Pepsi. Yes, read that again. The classic soft drink brand has teamed up with Seiko and the result is two limited models with a high collector factor and a hefty dose of nostalgia. The collaboration comprises two models: the SSK047, a GMT with an automatic movement and a bezel, and the SRPL99, a classic three-hand model with day-date. The SSK047 is based on Seiko's acclaimed GMT platform within the 5 Sports series. It comes with a blue and red 24-hour bezel, yes, Pepsi-coloured of course and a dial in brushed blue with white indexes and a red GMT hand. On the dial "Pepsi" is printed in italic style, subtle but still obvious. Inside ticks the automatic calibre 4R34 with 41 hours of power reserve.

The SRPL99 is somewhat more pared back but at least as charming. The dial is silver-coloured with Pepsi-red and blue details on the minute track and hands. The day-date function and the somewhat rounder indexes give it an almost retro-inspired feeling, which is reminiscent of old Seiko models from the 80s. The detail that stands out? The seconds hand with a small Pepsi logo mark at the base.

Special details and packaging

Both models are delivered on a classic Seiko 5 link in steel, but with unique Pepsi-engraved case backs as well as a specially designed box in the same colour theme. They are in addition limited to 8 000 examples each globally, which means that they will probably sell out quite quickly, especially among fans of pop culture and Seiko collectors.

Tudor Royal – blue dial

When one mentions Tudor many think of the Black Bay, Pelagos and perhaps the Ranger – but there is a model series that often flies under the radar, even though it ticks many boxes. We are talking about the Tudor Royal, the collection that combines sporty lines with dressed-up details in a package that is both good value and unexpectedly versatile. The first thing that strikes one is the integrated link. The Tudor Royal is therefore completely right in time with its 70s-scented design, without for that matter feeling like a copy of something else. The case has a clear angularity but is at the same time soft enough to work in more dressed-up contexts. The bezel ring is fluted and polished, which gives the model an almost Rolex Datejust-like expression, but with a more modern cut.