Grand Seiko opens 2023 strongly with 3 new releases

Text: Ola Jacobsen
Photo: Ola Jacobsen / Grand Seiko

The new year has not counted 40 days, but Grand Seiko have already managed three releases. Eqotime's Ola Jacobsen has had the chance to get his hands on a few of them.

Double up for the calibre 9S 25th anniversary

First out is the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGH311 and SBGR325. 

The watches are a tribute to the automatic movement 9S, which was introduced in 1998. Most spectacular is the hi-beat model SBGH311, which ticks along at 36,000 vibrations per minute, or ten per second. That gives higher accuracy and an even more sweeping movement of the seconds hand. 

But the big thing about the model is the completely new dial, which is inspired by the clouds that at dawn envelop Mount Iwate, where Grand Seiko manufactures all of its mechanical watches. 

Advanced and dial structures have long been one of Grand Seiko's specialities and here they have opened up for a completely new type of structure. Now, I have not had the privilege of experiencing dawn at Iwate, but I think the dial is more reminiscent of frost flakes or ice structure than a sea of clouds. Beautiful it is in any case. As usual it looks very different in different light, from rather flat to deeply three-dimensional. 

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition / Ref no. SBGH311 / limited to 1200 pieces / 37 x 13,3mm / Water resistance 100m / Case in steel with a case back of glass / White/silver-coloured dial with structure / bracelet in steel / automatic movement calibre 9S85 (in-house) / +5 to -3 seconds per day / 55 hours power reserve / Price 72,950 kronor, in stores from January

Titanium and urushi to celebrate 110 years

The year's second release celebrates the 110th anniversary of Seiko's and japan's first wristwatch: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Re-creation of the first Grand Seiko, SBGW295.

It is a tasteful affair in a titanium case of 38 x 10.9 millimetres with the same shape as the first Grand Seiko from 1960. Besides the tasteful proportions, the greatness of this watch lies in the lacquered dial and its painted indices. 

The black dial is made with so-called urushi, a lacquering technique with a several-thousand-year history in Japan. The indices in turn are built up from many layers of lacquer and gilded with 24 carat gold powder through the so-called maki-e technique. 

Behind the magically black one sits the manual 9S64 movement, with three days of power reserve. The movement can be admired through the glass back. 

The watch sits like a feather on the wrist on the robust yoroiori strap. The technique was of course originally developed to make samurai armour. The strap consists of a weave of thin bands of calfskin and fabric and combines flexibility with strength and durability. A comfortable, more traditional leather strap is also in the box. 

The black lacquer dial is magical and is paired perfectly with the dark case and the gold in the hands and indices. The Grand Seiko SBGW295 is released in 500 pieces. I hope Grand Seiko releases more variants in a larger edition. I would happily see a version in steel. 

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Re-creation of the first Grand Seiko / Ref no. SBGW295 / Limited to 500 pieces / 38 x 10,9mm / Water resistance 30m / Titanium case with a case back of glass / Black Urushi-lacquered dial with painted gold indices / Woven strap of leather and fabric plus leather strap / Manual movement calibre 9S64 (in-house), +5 to -3 seconds per day / 72 hours power reserve / Price 149,950 kronor, in stores from January

The king of the jungle's mane on the dial

The third new release is a chronograph with a lion's mane dial. Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive Chronograph GMT, SBGC253. 

While the manufacturer previously hid its masterly dial work in details that were often only visible to anyone studying the watch up close, for a couple of years now they have gone in for dial structure that is visible from several metres away. This lion's mane dial is a good example of that.

At 44.5 x 16.8 millimetres the Grand Seiko SBGC253 is a hefty piece. But as usual the manufacturer conjures away at least a couple of millimetres with its sloping case sides and titanium case. If you recoil when you read about the size, my advice as usual is to try the watch on your arm before you dismiss it. The larger watches from Seiko and Grand Seiko often wear considerably smaller than their measurements.  

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive Chronograph GMT / Ref no. SBGC253 / 44,5 x 16,8mm / Water resistance 200m / Case in titanium with a case back of glass / Ivory white dial with lion's mane pattern / bracelet in titanium / Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement calibre 9R86 (in-house) / +/- 1 second per day or +/- 15 seconds per month / 72 hours power reserve / Price 138,950 kronor, in stores in March