Column: The most underrated watch brand in the world

We live in a time where logos say more than craftsmanship, and where a brand on the wrist often weighs heavier than what is actually sitting under the crystal. In this world it is not unusual for people to buy a watch to be seen, rather than to see. It is therefore not surprising that brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet constantly dominate the conversations not necessarily because they are always the best, but because they are the most visible on celebrities above all. But in the shadows of these iconic names live several manufacturers that, with pride, silence and technical brilliance, build some of the world's most impressive watches.

Text: Andreas Johansson

The question is therefore not which watch brand is the best. The question is which one is the most underrated. That a watch brand is underrated does not mean that it is unknown. It means that it does not get the respect and attention that its craftsmanship, history and innovation actually deserve. It can be due to lacking marketing, that the brand lacks a "celebrity factor", or that it simply has not fitted into the contemporary definition of "luxury".

Take Hublot, for example. A brand that often has to serve as a punching bag in discussions about "overpriced hype". But beneath the surface there is a company that, since its start in 1980, has challenged the conservatism within the watch world with courage, playfulness and material innovation. They were the first to combine gold and rubber, have created some of the most advanced skeleton models on the market and run their own laboratory for the development of new alloys. But despite this and despite a loyal customer base their legitimacy is questioned by purists who would rather talk about old Geneva names.

A similar fate meets Zenith. Here we have a brand with a technical heritage that surpasses many of its competitors. Their El Primero movement from 1969 is a milestone, the first automatic chronograph movement with high frequency. Rolex used it as the basis for its Daytona for several years. Still Zenith often ends up in the shade when people talk about sports chronographs. Why? Maybe because their name does not ring as loudly in pop culture. Maybe because they never cared about being trendy. They have instead continued to build movements that both technically and aesthetically stand in a class of their own.

And then we have Bulova, often incorrectly regarded as a "department store brand". In fact Bulova was among the first with electronic watches, and their Accutron from 1960 was so accurate that NASA used the technology for space flights. In modern times they have revived these technical feats, for example with their Precisionist series, which combines quartz drive with a sweeping seconds hand, an area where even the Swiss have had to look twice. Still Bulova has a hard time reclaiming its historical recognition, especially in Europe where American watches are still seen as a little less fine.

Raymond Weil and Vacheron Constantin 

Another example is Raymond Weil. Founded as late as 1976, in an era when the quartz revolution threatened to wipe out the entire Swiss watch industry, this independent family company managed to survive and flourish. Their models are often inspired by music, opera and classic elegance they are well built and good value. Still they are rarely mentioned in discussions about "fine watches". They are too discreet, too reasonable. In a world where most expensive is often interpreted as best, Raymond Weil's uncompromising middle ground has become their biggest disadvantage.

And what does one say then about Vacheron Constantin? A brand with roots from 1755, that has never ceased to manufacture watches not even during wars, recessions or the quartz chaos of the 70s. They manufacture some of the most complex movements in the world just look and their Overseas series is a masterpiece within sporty luxury. Still it is still the case that if you ask the average person which brand is the "finest", they answer Rolex, AP or Patek more often than Vacheron. That says more about the perception market than about reality.

Frédérique Constant 

But perhaps the most underrated brand of them all is Frédérique Constant.

Founded as late as 1988, this Geneva-based company is one of the few that has managed to go from zero to its own movement manufacturing in under 20 years. And not only automatic movements, but also with tourbillon, perpetual calendars and smartwatches with a classic watch. Their philosophy is clear: "Accessible luxury." They want more people to be able to wear a quality watch with a Swiss heart, without having to mortgage the house.

In an industry where tradition is often used as an excuse for stagnation, Frédérique Constant has been groundbreaking. They have for example collaborated with Silicon Valley to develop hybrid models, watches that are both analogue and connected, without giving up classic form. In addition they manufacture their movements themselves, a fact that should make every watch connoisseur raise their eyebrows. In their segment (approx. 10 000–50 000 SEK) it is almost unique. And still? Their name is rarely mentioned in the same breath as Tag Heuer,Tudor, Longines or IWC. Even though they often offer just as much, or more, watch for the money.

To wear an underrated brand is to take a stand. It is to show that one sees beyond marketing bubbles and status chasing. It is to choose craftsmanship over hype, history over hypebeast, substance over symbol. That is why I mean that Frédérique Constant is the world's most underrated watch brand. They build everything that enthusiasts say they want mechanics, elegance, innovation but without it screaming. They let the watch whisper, and in the understated lies the power. Because in the end horology is not about what others see on your wrist, but what you see when you look at it. And if there is something we should value in today's noisy consumption culture, then it is exactly that: the stillness in quality. That ticking reminder that the best is not always the most noticed.