Between masterpiece and market – Watches and Wonders 2025 in the rear-view mirror

There is something almost magical about Watches and Wonders – the big highlight of the year for those of us who love mechanics, craftsmanship and history in miniature format. The 2025 edition in Geneva was no exception. For one week many of the world's foremost watch brands gathered to show off their latest creations. And it was, as usual, magnificent.

Text: Andreas Johansson
Photo: Aleksandar Mladenovic

Rolex was of course the big talking point of the year, but what really caught my attention this year was the contrast between the extremely exclusive – and the attempts to reach a broader audience. But let us start with the former, which are always in a category of their own. 

Rolex 

One of the most unexpected talking points at Watches and Wonders 2025 was without doubt the Land-Dweller. For a brand that is often accused of not taking risks, this launch was brave.

The first thing that catches the eye is of course the dial. It is textured in a pattern that recalls a honeycomb – a completely new aesthetic direction for Rolex. The colour? Warm, almost golden brown, with subtle shifts in the light. It feels luxurious without being excessive. This is a watch for explorers on land, not at sea. You could call it an “Explorer deluxe”, but there is something new in the energy. There is also an almost poetic trait in how Rolex here flirts with nostalgia and texture– without losing its sense of functionality. The case is robust but elegant, and the watch comes with a completely new movement (7135), incredibly impressive. 

Even though Rolex also released some new dials for its Oyster Perpetual series, the trend is clear, it is several exclusive models that come into focus. One of the most notable updates is the introduction of a ceramic dial on the GMT-Master II. This model has a green ceramic dial that harmonises with the two-tone green and black bezel. The 40 mm case is made in 18 carat white gold. The other GMTs in precious metals also got a new exclusive dial in the material ”Tiger iron”. The 1908 model got a new link in gold. The polished link recalls vintage jewellery and offers both elegance and lightness. The Daytona model's precious metal versions also got new dials, among others in meteorite stone and turquoise. As the reader surely understands, the price tag on these models is high, but even the new Land-Dweller in steel is highly priced as it costs 170 000 SEK. Even though Rolex still has its entry-level models in steel, I wonder whether these too will get the new calibre in time and thereby also a price increase? That remains to be seen.      

Aggressive pricing, luxury and mechanical wonders

Some other brands also stand out as aggressive in their pricing, not least I think Grand Seiko, which admittedly releases fantastic watches, stands out in its pricing These launches underline Grand Seiko's ambition to position itself in the upper segment of the luxury watch market by offering exclusive models with advanced technology and high-quality materials. Some of the big Swiss names also played on familiar strings this year, but with aggresive pricing. Jaeger-LeCoultre  continued to invest in its iconic Reverso, with new variants that refine the classic art deco language rather than redefine it. The same goes for IWC, which blew new life into the Ingenieur–model. Both brands seem deliberately to hold on to what works: timeless, recognisable designs with a strong historical anchoring. They may not be the most daring launches – but in a time when many chase trend and technology it feels almost brave to just be true to yourself.

Watches were also released that symbolise the peak of what the industry can do. But also: in practice they are unattainable for most people. And that is perfectly fine – sometimes you need to be allowed to dream. You only need to look at what Vacheron Constantin, came out with this year: Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première. 1 521 components. 41 complications. It is not a watch – it is a technical masterpiece on the border between art and science. 

But what is happening at the other end of the spectrum?

In parallel with all this we see something else happening: brands like Oris, TAG Heuer and Baume & Mercier are working actively not to speak only to collectors and billionaires.

Oris continues its charm offensive with watches that feel genuine, fun and conscious – not least when it comes to sustainability. And TAG Heuer? They are clearly aiming at a younger target group, with models that breathe sport, tech and style. It is not just about lowering prices – it is about accessibility on a deeper level: in design, marketing and storytelling. The German brand also released a very fine World-timer at a cost of 3940 Euro. 

A few personal highlights

It is hard to give any exact ranking but spontaneously I think these five are some personal favourites:

1. Rolex GMT, Tiger Iron, yellow gold. 
2. Vacheron Constantin, Traditionnelle, 38 mm.
3. Cartier Panthère de Cartier. 
4. JLC, Reverso Tribute Geographic.
5. Nomos, World-Timer, blue. 

Miss of the year

If there was something that left me a little disappointed this year, it was actually Patek Philippe's launches. Sure, they are always technically impressive and the execution is as usual at absolute top level – but this year's novelties felt somewhat restrained, almost cautious. I missed that feeling of new thinking or emotional wow factor that Patek sometimes manages to deliver when they really want to. It turned out beautiful, correct and very… expected.

Watches and Wonders 2025 showed that there is room for both dream and reality in the watch world. The ultra-complex masterpieces may well be there, as stars to navigate by. But it is also gratifying to see that more brands are working so that watches can be something more people can actually wear – and feel something for.