Hands-on Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Text/image: Mia Litström

It turned out to be a wonderfully rich list of novelties at Watches & Wonders from Rolex side. Several of the models made the most of themselves in parallel with the big news, the anniversary Daytona which celebrates 60 years. The novelties turned out to be both safe choices but also something more unusual for this brand with for example the Perpetual 1908, the Yacht-Master in titanium as well as the playful and colourful Day-Date 36 and Oyster Perpetual. But it is also extra fun when the traditional brands dare and go all out by doing something entirely of their own. But enough talk about the colourful dials with balls and puzzle pieces that became the fair's biggest talking point. 

An updated GMT-Master II

Now we set our sights on the new GMT-Master II which is a really safe choice. It can never be wrong. Two versions, one in yellow gold, trendy as anything. But it has a completely different price picture than the other which is in bicolore, or as it is called in Rolex language, Rolesor, is a name they registered already in 1933. The all gold version has a price of 38 500 euro and the one in two tones Rolesor has a price of 16 300 euro. So it is a considerable price difference and the one in gold is fantastically gorgeous but you also really have to love the special style that a watch entirely in yellow gold entails. Rolesor I think is so incredibly much more becoming, it always suits, for everyday as for party and it is never wrong. And it is that one we have squeezed and felt extra much on. Exciting is among other things the new colour combination on the rotating bezel ring, with 24-hour graduation in grey cerachrom and black ceramic, which is strikingly good-looking in two tone with the black dial. 

Gold and steel

In addition the tones of the gold, together with the cast numerals in gold and PVD on the bezel ring, which gives the watch a warm fine tone that neatly and in a balanced way suits the oyster steel. A really classic combination on a stylish watch and where two tone is starting to become really popular again. That this is topped with a bracelet that was created for the Datejust model, a Jubilee 5-link, which gives this model a fantastically lovely and classic style. In addition the bracelet shapes itself well to the wrist. The gold in the middle is bright polished and the oyster steel is satin brushed, a perfect combo and if you look at the inside of the bracelet both materials are satin brushed which is a pleasant surface to have closest to the skin. Good-looking and moreover practical is the easylink where you can adjust the bracelet up to 5 mm. Perfect during the summer when the wrist swells during hot summer days. 

A classic size

The size is 40 mm with a case in their own Oyster steel. The dial has a black lacquered surface with hands as well as indexes in yellow gold which gives a good contrast and is easy to read off even in dimmed light. Indexes and hands have luminous material and the date display at 3 o'clock of course has a magnifying glass. The finesse with the GMT-Master II is not only that the whole is soberly gorgeous but it has a GMT function which is perfect for the traveller since it can show two time zones where you among other things make use of the rotating bezel ring which can be turned in both directions.

The outermost edge of the ring has a grippable pattern which makes it easy to get a grip but which is also really good-looking and you realise that nothing is left to chance, it is a very fine finish. Likewise the click for every hour when you turn the ring is well adjusted. The lower light part of the ring, which is grey, shows daytime and the upper one in black night time. New is also that on the dial it says GMT-Master II in a gold tone which stands above their certification Superlative Chronometer. 

The height of the case is 11.90 mm and it is a substantial watch for a slimmer wrist, height-wise too, but in this case that is not negative but on the contrary, it should make the most of itself and it is comfortable regardless of the size of the wrist, then it is of course a question of what you personally like. A GMT-Master II may well take up space. The two-coloured tone is also extra good-looking when you see the side of the watch where the flanks on the side of the case in steel are beautifully bright polished and it becomes extra gorgeous with the triplock crown in gold. The back is in steel and on the inside sits the heart of the watch which is their own automatic movement Caliber 3285, COSC-certified with a power reserve of 70 hours. The water resistance is 100 m. 

In summary you can say that Rolex always manages to hit the trends so right despite being traditional. To launch a GMT-Master II in yellow gold and two tone Rolesor is incredibly right for the times. But this is absolutely not the watch for the one who wants to be discreet but for the one who loves this style with a substantial watch that makes the most of itself but not in the form of colour, just in its sober cockiness. Then the GMT complication is also very simple to handle and smooth for those who often make long journeys. Whether this one gets a gorgeous nickname remains to be seen, pepsi, Batman, there are many well-known designations among the sibling models, I myself have no good guess right now but maybe you do…

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