Hands-on: Longines Master Collection 190th anniversary

Text/Photo: Aleksandar Mladenovic

Longines turns 190 and celebrates this by releasing three novelties in their Master Collection that are clearly inspired by their heritage with elegant details. Eqotime got to become acquainted with one of the three novelties earlier this year and we like what we see.

The basics

Longines has a long and distinguished history and is one of the industry's most respected brands. This year they turn a full 190 and are launching three models within the Master Collection collection with clear inspiration from their past. Elegant cases with details such as Breguet indices and blued hands are a nod to its history.

Three models are introduced in three different metals: stainles steel, 18k yellow gold and 18k rose gold. Earlier this year we got a sneak peek at the first-mentioned model and we liked what we saw. What is common to all three is the 40mm large case with a thickness of 9,35mm and the automatic movement L888.5 (ETA A31.L01) with a 72h power reserve.

The dials differ in their finish between the versions, the one in stainless steel and rose gold has a sandblasted dial while the one in yellow gold has a vertically brushed finish. On the versions in precious metal the hands and indices match the case material while on the one in steel they have chosen blued hands for a clearer contrast against the silver-coloured dial.

Another difference is that the ones in precious metal are limited and numbered, 190 examples in each metal, while the one in steel is unlimited.

If we go even deeper into the steel model then we really have to take our hat off and praise Longines for the really nice dial. The sandblasted finish together with the engraved Breguet indices gives the watch a very lovely depth and it really feels alive on the wrist. Unfortunately we have not had the opportunity to see the other two in reality, but there too we think it was a good decision to go for a brushed finish and that they have completely avoided the more common sunburst finish. The watch clearly breathes more vintage and they do not become as "blingy" when you choose a more matte finish on the dial as has been done in these cases.

The movement is the well-proven L888.5 that sits in a number of other models from Longines. The movement can be viewed through the case back's sapphire crystal and it ticks along at 25,200 bph. The balance spring is made in silicon to better resist magnetism and the power reserve comes to about 72h.

The watches are delivered on a leather strap in alligator skin with so-called "soft touch". Exactly what that means we are unsure of, but the strap feels very nice in the hand, almost a little silky, and is not at all as stiff as alligator straps can be before you have had time to use them a bit. The clasp is a folding clasp with the Longines logo on the buckle that is opened via the push buttons on the side. The grey colour suits all three models well and gives a nice whole.

On the wrist

The only criticism we have against the watch is the size, here we would have liked to see them come down a little further in size when it comes to the watch's diameter. Above all since the watch is so vintage-inspired, but also since we know that the demand for more traditional case sizes is starting to be demanded more and more. The Longines Spirit in the smaller size, 37mm, is immensely popular and a watch with this design would have felt a little more "at home" in a smaller size.

Diameter notwithstanding, the watch is very elegant in its design and its thinness means that it easily slips under the shirt cuff.

Summarising thoughts

In our opinion you get a great deal of watch for the money, specifically when it comes to the model in steel. A very fine and well-worked dial that reeks of elegance together with a well-proven automatic movement for just under 25,000kr feels punchy. As mentioned we would not have had anything against the watch being a couple of millimetres smaller, but we on the editorial staff are also fairly conservatively inclined when it comes to the size of watches. All in all the model feels like a very good offering where the 190 examples in precious metal are likely to disappear quickly to the most dedicated collectors of Longiens.

For more information about the watch, visit Longines' website

Technical specifications

Brand: Longines
Model: Master Collection 190th anniversary
Reference number: L2.793.4.73.2 (steel), L2.793.6.73.2 (yellow gold), L2.793.8.73.2 (rose gold)

Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 9,35mm
Case material: Steel, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold

Dial: Silver sandblasted or brushed grey as well as brushed dark grey with engraved indices
Water resistance: 30m
Bracelet: Leather strap in alligator skin with a folding clasp in steel as well as a thorn buckle in yellow and rose gold respectively

Movement: Longines L888.5 (base ETA ETA A31.L01)
Complications: –
Power reserve: 72h
Winding: Automatic

Price: 24,900kr in steel (not limited), 125,000kr in precious metal (limited to 190 examples each)