Hands-on: Hermès Cut
One of the new releases that caught our attention at Watches & Wonders 2024 was this watch from Hermès, which in recent years has begun to establish itself seriously in the luxury watch segment.
Text/photo: Aleksandar Mladenovic
One of the novelties that caught our attention at Watches & Wonders 2024 was this watch from Hermès, which in recent years has seriously started to establish itself in the luxury watch segment. They master complications well but there has been a bit of a shortage of everyday watches from the brand apart from their model Hermès H08 which debuted a couple of years ago. This year sees the launch of the model Hermès Cut, a unisex model in a good size that fits perfectly both at the beach and at the office.
It is a special little rascal, this Cut. The case is hard to describe, a mixture of different geometric shapes. The watch is neither round, square nor oval for that matter. From the side the profile is a little reminiscent of a Panerai actually. It is not only the shapes that are mixed but also an interesting mix of brushed and polished surfaces – which contributes to a lot going on on the wrist. What can be established is that the appearance is quite soft, but without feeling strange on a male wrist.
The case measures 36mm in diameter and has a length of approx. 41mm – a good size in my opinion that fits me like a hand in a glove. The thickness is approx. 10mm and overall the build quality and finish on the watch are very good. I have worn it for about 1 week now and it just feels more right with every day that passes. The crown is nicely integrated into the case between 1 & 2 o'clock and is engraved with an orange ”H”. It is not screwed down, but the watch is water resistant down to 100m.
The silvery dial has applied Arabic numerals as indexes (with SuperLuminova) and orange details on the seconds hand and the minute markings. Very easy to read and clear.
The model is launched in 4 different versions, in steel on either a bracelet or a rubber strap – with or without diamonds on the crystal ring and in gold and steel with or without diamonds on the crystal ring.
There are a number of different rubber straps to mix and match with the watch, I have test-driven it on 2 rubbers in green and of course orange, but also on the bracelet in steel. We have become rather spoiled with so-called ”quick switch” solutions from brands in recent years, some better than others, but Hermès' solution is without doubt one of the easiest I have operated. A delight to change straps quite simply.
The bracelet is brushed with polished centre links and has a hidden (double) folding clasp. It has screwed link pieces and feels very solid overall.
The watch is driven by the automatic movement calibre H1912 which is made by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, where Hermès owns 25% of the company. The power reserve is 50 hours and the frequency 4 Hz (28,800 bph). The bridges and the rotor are decorated with ”H” and have good finish overall without being anything extraordinary.
In summary I am impressed by the new model. A good size that works well on both women and men, comfortable and pleasant rubber straps that are easy to change, a solid movement and overall a very pleasant watch to wear. For anyone looking for something that is perfect for everyday and not from one of the ”usual” manufacturers I absolutely think the Hermès Cut should be an option.
The Swedish list price for the watch on a rubber strap is 66 950 kr and on the bracelet 73 100 kronor for the model in steel without bling.
Read more about the watches at Hermès
