Hands-on: A.Lange & Söhne's new models from Watches & Wonders
A. Lange & Söhne work with impressive dedication to deliver the best of watchmaking, finishing and polishing to their customers. It is precisely that and the small production (5,000 watches/year) that makes those who have discovered the brand very loyal to it and gives them a very close relationship with the brand.
Text: Britta Rossander
Photo: Mia Litström
A. Lange & Söhne works with impressive dedication to deliver the best of watchmaking, finishing and polishing to their customers. It's exactly that and the small production (5,000 watches/year) that makes those who have discovered the brand very loyal to it and have a very close relationship with the brand.
Eqotime's Britta Rossander and Mia Litström got to take a closer look at Lange & Söhne's news during Watches & Wonders 2022.
Personal and playful
A big part of the success lies in the fact that those who work there are so nice and personal with both customers and us journalists. CEO Wilhelm Schmid makes an effort to recognize everyone.
A press presentation at Lange is like being part of a stand up show. Anthony de Haas, head of development of new models and movements as well as hobby drummer, called Tony by everyone, presents ”his” watches as if he were a comedian, he likes to call them ”she” as if they were women.
This time we were only four and Andy was in top form. When he handed out the gloves he said: don't break the packaging – you'll get more money on E-Bay if it's intact, very aware that the smallest little thing with Lange's logo on it can be resold.
Richard Lange Minute Repeater
First up is the most complicated news – A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater ref. 606.079F.
The case measures 39 mm in diameter with the height 9.7 mm and black strap with buckle in platinum. The edition will be 50 pieces.
A watch with one of the most complicated sound functions. It is classically executed, modernly developed, has a white three-part enamel dial and case in platinum. This is beautiful watchmaking art both in terms of appearance and sound.
The firm's tradition of pocket watches is noticeable in several details. This is a minute repeater with what one might perhaps call ”historical authenticity” in the construction and together with the enameled dial, the blued hands and the narrow Roman numerals it has a truly harmonious appearance with historical vibes. I experience it as the ultimate minute repeater, without unnecessary additional complications. The hammers are visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback and so is the new manual movement L122.1
–The hammers are optimized in material, shape, size, weight and hardness and for the function to be perfect it requires that the watchmaker does several tests and reassemblies, says Tony
A video of the watch ”in action” can be found here: https://youtube.com/shorts/RyTCG0DqX8c
Odysseus – A. Lange & Söhne's first watch in titanium
Odysseus' new version is a relaxed elegant watch in titanium with a titanium bracelet. The dial is dark ice blue with a special guilloché pattern. It is the brand's first titanium watch and will be manufactured in 250 pieces.
Titanium is after all 43 % lighter than steel and has high resistance to corrosion, which makes it robust but with finesse and elegance where matte and polished, brushed and not brushed matters for the appearance.
Case of 40.5 mm in diameter, the height is 11.1 mm and the water resistance is up to 120 meters. The movement is caliber L155.1 automatic.
New A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 perfectly reflects how one can further develop a series that has been the brand's face for more than 25 years and that set new standards in precision watchmaking. The model has been important in the collection since 2003. An iconic watch that is a refined understatement with exciting design. As luck would have it, the dial's characteristic design has been left untouched but the case is 8.2 mm high unlike the previous one which was 8.8 mm. That 0.6 mm can make such a difference you don't believe until you compare the watches and try them.
I asked Nicole Schmiedel who is Head of Design and Tony's closest colleague about how one goes about cutting 0.6 mm. Did everyone who works with the model sit down around a table and you asked – who can remove something in height on ”their” part?
–Yes pretty much that's how it goes. We gather and everyone comes with input on what we can do without changing any function, was the answer I got.
At that table one would have liked to be present…
In 2012 it got its own movement and this year it is thus refined with a little more elegance as a result. A subtle change that one could miss if one doesn't test it. The watch looks and feels slimmer and sits comfortably on the wrist.
The movement L095.1. is visible through the caseback's sapphire crystal. The case is gold in white or rosé tone with a grey dial.
