Geneva Watch Days 2022: Part 1

Text/photo: Aleksandar Mladenovic

At the end of August the third edition of Geneva Watch Days was held – a watch fair in Geneva with both large exhibitors such as Breitling and BVLGARI as well as quite a few independent brands. Eqotime was on site and took part in the many novelties that were presented. We will split the posts into several parts and write a little about each meeting we had.

Bvlgari

Bulgari was not resting on its laurels but presented a whole range of different novelties. No fewer than 5 models were presented in their popular Octo Finissimo line. There was a lot of gold on the theme, a full 4 out of 5 models were presented in precious metal.

Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days is a manual version of the Octo Finissimo with, just as the name gives away, a skeletonised movement and an 8-day power reserve. The case is made in 18k rose gold and is delivered on a leather strap in alligator. The movement is beautifully finished and measures only 2.5mm in thickness. The watch as a whole is 5.95mm thick (compared with the automatic versions' 6.4mm).

They introduced two versions of the modern classic Octo Finissimo in rose gold with a brown dial as well as a limited version (50 examples) for the American market in yellow gold with an identical dial. Like the versions in stainless steel these alternate brushed and polished surfaces (the first version of the Octo Finissimo had a sandblasted case in rose gold).

A new chronograph with GMT was among the novelties too, this one also in rose gold with a brown dial. The chronograph is 3mm larger than the previously mentioned models in diameter and measures 43mm as well as having a thickness of 8.75mm in total, still very thin for an automatic chronograph with a GMT complication.

Last out among the new Octo Finissimo watches was a limited version made in collaboration with the Japanese architect Sejima. This watch comes in a high-gloss polished package where the whole watch acts as a mirror more or less. From case and link to dial. Very cool to look at but rather hard to read. 360 examples will be made and it is the second time Bulgari collaborates with a Japanese artist (we prefer the collaboration with Tadao Ando).

Laurent Ferrier

Laurent Ferrier is a brand we have had feedback about that readers and listeners want to see more of, luckily for us we had the opportunity to get more closely acquainted with these beautiful creations.

We start with the two novelties that were presented earlier this year. First out, Sport Auto which is the brand's sports watch in titanium. The trend of sports watches with integrated links and blue dials finally reached Laurent Ferrier too and it is a really interesting watch. Laurent Ferrier's DNA is clear in the form of the dial and hands in a square case with a bracelet in the same material. The movement is of course in-house and an automatic one with a micro-rotor in platinum. A really cool watch to get to experience that is very sought after by collectors.

The other novelty for the year is a blue-dialled one from the Classic Originline. This look is probably one of those most strongly associated with Laurent Ferrier – the curved case in titanium with the elegant Assegaihands and drop-shaped indices. A hand-wound movement that is a joy to behold through the open back.

A personal favourite from the range is the Square Micro-Rotor Retro. A tribute to the art deco watches of the 1930s in a modern guise. Available in two versions, 18k rose gold or stainless steel with a dark grey and silver dial respectively. The front is beautiful and you can sit and stare at the movement for hours. Yum!

MB&F

From a more restrained and classic design to Maximilian Büsser's more eccentric creations. MB&F has over a relatively short period of 17 years developed 20 impressive calibres. They are simply not resting on their laurels!

New for this year is their Legacy Machine Split Escapement in the EVO line, which is their more sporty collection that is better suited for daily use. This more sporty line was introduced 2 years ago (firsst out a perpetual calendar and after that an insanely complicated chronograph) and has quickly become very popular.

The model is launched in two configurations – one with an ice-blue dial as well as a limited edition for their new boutique in Beverly Hills with a black base and metallic-blue subdials. The cases are made in grade 5 titanium and measure 44 x 17.5mm. No small pieces, though they are quite ergonomic on the wrist. The subdials indicate time, date and power reserve and the watches are delivered on very comfortable rubber straps.

On site we naturally took the chance to have a look at the two other models in the EVO line, impressive creations to say the least. Stay tuned for an interview with Max Büsser whom our colleagues met.

Czapek

If you have read our Czapek guide that we wrote earlier this year when we visited the Swedish INDP Watches then you are probably already familiar with Quai des Bergues. This year they have updated the calibre in the watches as well as introduced a new colour, yes you guessed right, it is green. The blue version has also been given an updated dial that is in a lighter shade. The dials look really good and we also like that they have updated the movement's design (see the comparison picture below). Czapek is definitely an independent manufacturer to keep an eye on going forward.

Louis Erard

Last out in part 1 is Louis Erard, a manufacturer that has become more and more popular in recent years above all because of their collaborations with designers and watchmakers such as Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Unlike the previous brands we have written about in this article, Louis Erard is considerably more accessible when it comes above all to price. The watches sit within a price range of about 20.000 – 40.000kr and deliver interesting finish and design for the money.

We took part in a number of novelties, unfortunately these were under embargo so we are treating you to a few pictures from previously launched collections.

Stay tuned for part 2!