Exceptional watch history for sale

Text: Britta Rossander
Picture: Phillips & Mia Litström

Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo presented during GWD a few spectacular watches that are to be sold during the auction named Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, an auction where the theme puts the masterpieces of watchmaking from 1980-1999 under the magnifying glass.

The sale will be carried out in Geneva on 8 November at Hotel President. The collection will tour and the nearest stop for us in Sweden will be London 21-23 October at Phillips, 30 Berkeley Square. 

We have picked out four of the most spectacular watches that we, together with Phillips expert Marcello De Marco, take a closer look at and moreover get a little extra info about from him:

1. The first Rolex ’Rainbow’ Daytona, 

2. A previously unknown Philippe Dufour Duality

3. Derek Pratt's legendary pocket watch for Urban Jürgensen

4. The first wristwatch that was sold by F.P. Journe

Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking 1980-1999, is a peerless collection of “neo-vintage” watches. We can see avant-garde design and groundbreaking mechanical complications for watches that defined the watch landscape during the 1980s and 1990s. The period was preceded by an era dominated by quartz watches, but during this period the luxury watch had a renaissance combined with mechanical inventiveness. During these two decisive decades watchmakers and brands immersed themselves in their craft and produced some of the most innovative and complex mechanical watches ever created. 

Both Alexandre Ghotbi, head of watches, Europe & the Middle East, and Tiffany To, head of sales for Phillips, hold that: 

–It was a period of great change and much experimentation. As quartz watches came to dominate the market, mechanical watchmaking stood at a crossroads. It was a matter of change or die. The Swiss watch industry stood its ground and showed resilience with innovative solutions that made the 1980s and 1990s one of the most creative periods for watchmaking and that moreover made room for independent watchmakers. 

Wristwatches with several complications were made and the movement constructors had a vision of creating movements never before seen. You could say that the watch industry invented itself anew and laid the foundation for the luxury, precision and craftsmanship that we see today. And you could say that without this era's pioneering spirit, watchmaking would not look the way it does today. Reloaded will probably be one of the most exciting and interesting auctions, offering a wide range of brands, styles, complications and price ranges. It is likely to be an auction for watch lovers. 

Rolex Daytona Cosmograph ref. 16599 ”The first ever Rainbow”

Few watches are so elusive that only a handful of connoisseurs have seen them in real life, as for example the unique, the first of its kind: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ’Rainbow’ ref. 16599 in white gold. It is a watch that makes its auction debut during Reloaded in November after having been part of a private collection for decades. This Rolex was created as a one-off masterpiece in the 1990s and has a case ring with sapphires in graded shades that pass from deep red to purple and that resemble the colours of the rainbow. Even though it is now known as one of the most exclusive Rolex watches, it meant a groundbreaking concept when it was made and set itself apart from everything the market had seen before. Almost two decades passed before the production series ’Rainbow’ Daytona was introduced. The auction's watch has a unique rainbow colour scheme that differs from all later models. The coloured stones are perfectly matched to imitate a real rainbow and the setting of them is as perfect as it can possibly be done, which you can see with the help of a loupe. 

The First-Ever ‘Rainbow’ Daytona Ref. 16599 has an estimate of 3 million CHF.

Philippe Dufour Duality

The unique Philippe Dufour Duality is a challenge because the previous information holds that only nine pieces were made. This previously unknown tenth piece was created for an advanced collector and has a distinct configuration: case in brushed platinum, dark grey dial with indexes and hands in rose gold and a movement without inscriptions. Its unique status can be demonstrated through a certificate of origin that comes with it. The Duality was introduced in 1996 and was the first wristwatch to have a double going mechanism for increased accuracy. It is inspired by a school clock from the Vallée de Joux Watchmaking School and made as a miniature for wristwatches by Dufour. Even though it was originally planned to produce 25 pieces, only nine are said to have been completed. This tenth piece, which comes onto the market for the first time, is being sold by the original owner and represents a significant milestone within independent watchmaking.

Estimate: 800 000 – 1 600 000 CHF

Derek Pratt Oval pocket watch for Urban Jürgensen

The oval pocket watch by Derek Pratt (one of the most skilled watchmakers, who has often flown under the radar) for Urban Jürgensen. It stands out with its different shape and advanced flying tourbillon. The watch was made between 1983 and 2005 and has a case of brushed platinum and a handmade movement signed ”Urban Jürgensen” and ”Invenit et Fecit” (Latin for ’He found it and made it). This completely handmade watch shows Pratt's devotion to precision watchmaking with a tourbillon and consistent power and accuracy. As technical director at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, Pratt made this watch with the help of Kari Voutilainen to honour legendary watchmakers such as Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. The watch comes from Dr. Helmut Crott's (world famous watch expert and founder of watch auctions) collection. A masterpiece of sophisticated watchmaking and tradition.

Estimate: 1 million CHF

F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité

Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité 15/93 is the first wristwatch sold made by François-Paul Journe. It is the watch that established F.P. Journe as a ’must-know brand’, launched in 1999. Before Journe became a well known watchmaker he created unique movements for a select group of collectors. This Tourbillon is the second wristwatch he made and the first one he sold. The watch from 1993 is immediately identifiable as a Journe, through a movement in gold, a raw dial with visible elements and a solid back. This watch is one of only three that are handmade by Journe himself. It is minutely hand engraved with printed inscriptions on the dial and numbered ’15/93′, which marks that it was made in 1993. Together with the watch the buyer gets the original technical drawings and the invoice that came with it.

Estimate: 2 million CHF

Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999

Auction: 8 november 2024, 2pm CET

Auction viewing: 6-8 November 2024

Location: Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, 1211 Genève