The watches we want to see in 2023

Text: Filip Ericsson

A new year has begun and for watch lovers that always means tense anticipation about what the new year will offer in the form of new models. Eqotime's Filip Ericsson has let his thoughts flow and lists six watches he wishes for on the market during 2023 – some more likely than others. 

One of the best things there is for everyone with wristwatches as their religion is to surf around on the internet and look for watches, study watches, learn everything about a brand or a model or just get to feast the eyes on beautiful photos of their favourites. Watches spin around in our heads all the time, we make imaginary lists of which watches we want in the collection, which ones we are planning to buy. We save and think and dream.  

This whole carousel that circles in our brains does however also include a good deal of frustration. Imagine if that brand could make such a watch, imagine if they could have made that model like this and like that, and so on.  

There is a lot out there that is not perfect and that we wish the manufacturers had done differently. That is exactly what this article is about and here are my own wishes about which watches I would like to see during 2023. We will take it in alphabetical order. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving 

Jaeger-LeCoultre. Let the name rest on the tongue. It kind of reeks of class, quality, history – and good taste. The tradition-laden company makes expensive, but hardly the most expensive, watches. The exclusivity in the name somehow plays in an even higher league than the prices suggest, and some of its models really belong among watch history's great classics.  

The brand thereby has a large crowd of admirers, which in turn means surging feelings towards their products. And that is why many are frustrated that the Jaeger range today has a gaping hole in its model palette.  

The brand may be known for its legendary dress watches such as the Reverso and Master Ultra Thin, but its history also includes tough tool watches, some with a military connection. Jaeger-LeCoultre was for example one of the brands in the fabled “The dirty dozen”, and thereby supplied watches to the British armed forces at the end of the Second World War. 

In 2002 a series of sports watches appeared with a new technology for securing the crown – Master Compressor. That means a small lever on the crown that is turned a little way to lock/unlock, instead of a screw-down crown that is otherwise customary on water resistant watches. This is said to have made handling the crown easier.   

The model came in a number of executions, sizes of 42, 44 and 46mm and complications such as alarm, GMT and chronograph, as well as diver versions with a rotating bezel and water resistance all the way down to 1000 metres. The compressor technology gave the crown a studied appearance and especially on variants with two crowns the model stood out with a strong macho touch.  

In 2010 a real treat appeared in the form of the Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs, and now we come to the core of this exposition: we want it back!  

Firstly the shape was more restrained than other variants in the Compressor series and secondly the USA's fabled military elite division Navy SEALs had been involved in the development. The result was a classically shaped diver's watch that would suit secret missions in precarious environments (one may presume) and that at the same time had clear Jaeger-LeCoultre DNA, especially in the dial's typeface.  

The dimensions were 42mm across the case and 12.75mm in height, water resistance to the equivalent of 300 metres and inside ticked Jaeger-LeCoultre's fine Caliber 899 movement. Perhaps a little too fine for this type of watch according to some. 1500 pieces were put together up until 2011, when production ceased. The Master Compressor as a model was discontinued in 2017. 

Today the discreet sports watch Polaris with its two crowns and internal bezel is admittedly in the brand's model range, but surely it comes across as a relatively flat and characterless figure? Furthermore it is unjustifiably thick and also costs a fair amount of money. At least I want more bang får the bucks.  

And that is where a Master Compressor-inspired, masculine diver's watch comes into the picture, a wristwatch with a clear nod to Jaeger-LeCoultre's charming tool watch-history, without losing the brand's typical elegance and refinement.  

IWC Ingenieur 

For decades IWC has chiselled out a form of masculine, technical character in its watches. Today there is however a good deal I would like to change in its product portfolio, so I have had to limit myself to the two most important ones. 

We start with the IWC classic Ingenieur. I have never been so close to tears, in watch contexts at least, as when the good-looking, character-filled IWC Ingenieur 3239 all of a sudden passed away in 2017.  

And the aftermath was as grey as an overcast January Tuesday. The successor, and likewise today's, Ingenieur had been transformed into an astonishingly bland product, far from the predecessor's idiosyncratically industrial beauty. They evidently chose a strongly retro-inspired shape, but lost their way along the road.   

Where the current version lies close to the first Ingenieur from 1954 in its design language, the predecessor 3239 (from 2013) was instead strongly inspired by Gerald Genta's stringent luxury sports watch from 1976.   

In addition the 3239 held full-blooded magnetic protection, the model's very core value, while today's Ingenieur lacks this. So please IWC, scrap the 50s shape and reinstate Genta's design language as well as the technical specifications that this legendary instrument watch deserves. 

IWC Aquatimer 

Another true classic in IWC contexts is the diver's watch Aquatimer, which appeared in 1967. It was the brand's first diver's watch and was developed as an answer to the growing popularity of recreational diving at the time. With its internal rotating ring it has since then stood proudly alongside the other big beasts among diver's watches such as the Omega Seamaster and the Rolex Submariner.

Today's Aquatimer is undeniably a capable diver's watch, but surely it has lost the beauty and the individuality of its predecessors. In 1997 the IWC Aquatimer GST (ref. 3536) was released, where GST stood for Gold Steel Titanium, which alluded to three available case materials.   

The new diver's watch managed a full 2000 metres (!) and offered an original shape that screamed purposeful tool watch while at the same time reeking of IWC character. Inside ticked, as customary, a modified ETA 2892 movement that suited the GST diver like a hand in a glove. Accurate, reliable, easy to service.

The GST measured a substantial 42mm in diameter and 14.5mm in height. Somewhat wide dimensions for the office perhaps, but the 2000 metres probably forgave that. And it was of course strapped on outside a diving suit that it belonged.   

GST generation two (ref. 3548) appeared in 2004 and went back to the original Aquatimer with an internal rotating ring. But like its predecessor the new GST also held a distinctively industrial tone in its expression, while at the same time they had managed to chisel out a highly innovative shape. Masterful. 

The new GST came in several variants that managed 1000 as well as 2000 metres, as a chronograph, perpetual calendar and with a case in steel, titanium or gold. A stringently shaped diver's watch for all tastes, then. 

Both of these Aquatimer variants have, thanks to their self-assured, characteristic shape, a devoted crowd of enthusiasts around the world, and I consider that in their individuality they are oceans more appealing than the current version. Do it again, do it right and return to the days of former glory. 

Rolex Milgauss

The Rolex Milgauss was introduced in 1956 as one in the line of wristwatches for professional groups that demanded precision and reliability in environments where they were exposed to magnetic fields – such as certain types of scientists and engineers. The IWC Ingenieur (1954) we have already mentioned and the Omega Railmaster (1957) is another. The Milgauss in particular was developed for employees at CERN, the European organisation for nuclear research.  

In 2007 the Milgauss that is sold today (116400) was introduced, an odd figure in Rolex's model programme with its green sapphire crystal and a highly idiosyncratic seconds hand shaped like a stylised lightning bolt, in orange.  

What distinguishes the Milgauss, besides the mentioned quirks, is the fat case that stems from a time when garishness was at the height of fashion in the watch industry. The bigger and thicker, the better. The current model has a case of 40mm with a thickness of over 13mm, and lugs as thick as Jan Guillou's forearms – whereupon the internet forums have been infested with laments about the Milgauss's stockiness.  

Since then fashion has swung and people have begun to appreciate more slimmed-down dimensions again. Downsizing is in fashion right now.  

The Rolex Air-King, another oddball treated like a stepchild in the brand's palette, shed its skin last year and can be seen as a foretaste of how the next Milgauss may come across. The Air-King was namely blessed with a considerably slimmed-down case. Still at an (ideal) 40mm but only 11.59mm thin and noticeably narrower lugs, which together give a considerably sleeker impression.  

On top of that the case also received crown guards like the Submariner and GMT Master (the first time on a Rolex without a rotating bezel), as well as the new Caliber 3230 movement, which so reliably and accurately drives almost all current Rolex watches in one form or another.  

The protection against magnetic fields is now so good that the 3230 should do even for a new Milgauss, but the question then is what will make the model stand out; an even better magnetic protection? Regardless of that, the Milgauss is a real Rolex classic that deserves a fresh start, with the new movement as well as the sportily elegant case from the Air-King.  

Above all we want to see a more harmonious dial than on the Air-King, its constant Achilles heel. And the undersigned would happily do without the childish lightning hand too!

Universal Genève Polerouter

The fine brand Universal Genève is as venerable and distinguished as it is anonymous. In the old days the company was a player among the big ones, while today it leads a hidden-away existence with a model range that is sleepy to say the least. You wonder how they can still be alive under those conditions. 

There ought however to be good opportunities for the brand to step back into the limelight, something that becomes clear when you look into its history. One wristwatch that stands out like a Grail in Universal's universe is a jaw-droppingly elegant instrument watch by the name of Polerouter that was introduced in 1954.  

I have long agonised over it, long wondered how you can let a treat like this sit unused in the historical chest of drawers. Especially as the retro trend on the watch market is still red hot. What are they waiting for? 

It was in 1953 that our Nordic airline SAS inaugurated its new route for flights between Copenhagen and Los Angeles. It went over the North Pole and saved a full 14 hours of flying time compared with the old route, 22 hours against the previous 36.  

This did however create a problem: magnetism. The magnetic fields over the North Pole are extremely strong and SAS had to develop an entirely new navigation system to solve the problem. The wristwatches worn by pilots and other cabin staff were also negatively affected.  

Universal Genève, which was already collaborating with SAS, took on the task of developing a watch that would work under these conditions. The then unknown Swiss designer Gerald Genta was given the job of drawing the new watch. Yes, the Polerouter is thus a Genta design. 

The Polarouter (as it was called in the beginning) was introduced in 1954 as SAS's official pilot's watch. The year after it was renamed the Polerouter, whereupon the old bumper movement was replaced with a new, innovative unit (Caliber 215) with a so-called micro-rotor. An elegant solution that befitted a fine brand like Universal Genève.  

The Polerouter was produced in various executions up until 1969 and the company has since then – to my knowledge – not sold any model that has been anywhere near its sublime elegance. It is thus time to put the mistake right, jump on the still prevailing retro trend and give us a new beautiful instrument watch to yearn for. With a micro-rotor.  

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin belongs to the “holy trinity” of the Swiss watch industry. The other two are Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, and the three are considered to stand at the absolute top of the watch mountain. At least as far as prestige and horological excellence are concerned.    

It is therefore not strange that Vacheron in 1977 jumped on the trend with the then new segment “luxury sports watches” that had been created by Audemars Piguet in 1972 (Royal Oak) and continued by Patek Philippe in 1976 (Nautilus). 

Vacheron's contribution came about as a 222nd anniversary, whereupon the watch was named precisely “222”. It never became the same success as the competitors' today so cherished contributions, though, and was discontinued in 1984.  

The follow-up with the name Overseas turned up in 1996 with an entirely new design language. It was an idiosyncratic and competent contribution to the top rung of luxury sports watches, but the Overseas did not become as popular as the Royal Oak or the Nautilus either. Even if the prices today have raced away upwards and they cannot be got hold of at authorised dealers by ordinary mortals either.  

I join in the cool feelings for the Overseas myself, feelings that have however heated up considerably since a couple of new variants were added at the beginning of 2016. We are talking about the Ultra-Thin and the Overseas 37mm, where the characteristic Overseas shape has finally been allowed to blossom out to its full potential.  

Mainly the Overseas Ultra-Thin I took to my heart, a genuine grail watch and a more or less unattainable dream whose magic almost reaches the same degree as a classic Royal Oak Jumbo. The pen strokes had been sharpened up and led to a more slimmed-down appearance that was perfected by considerably neater case dimensions.  

The Ultra-Thin was sold exclusively in white gold and measured 40mm in diameter as well as a mere 7.5mm in height. This was made possible by the Calibre 1120, a legendary unit that was once developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre on commission from Audemars, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. With a height of a mere 2.45mm Jaeger-LeCoultre had created the world's thinnest automatic movement.  

The Ultra-Thin was discontinued after a while and I miss it, because it was by a margin the most attractive variant in the Overseas programme, clearly more harmoniously designed than the thicker “standard model” at 41mm. So let us now have a new one! And I want it in steel as the luxury sports watch it should be, if for no other reason than to bring the price down from the half a million the original commanded.  

In other respects Vacheron Constantin comes across as a brand that is greatly liked, exclusive and tasteful like perhaps no other but at the same time more toned down than Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, in a positive sense.

Epilogue 

Of my six wish watches for 2023, two of them are exceedingly realistic dreams, at least if one is to believe the rumours that are floating around in watch-related media.  

A new Milgauss ought to be a predictable novelty any day now, since Rolex has recently updated its other sports watches but has so far left the Milgauss alone. As the current version is 16 years old and holds an already obsolete movement, the only alternative to a new version is that it is discontinued. And that would be utterly dreary. 

The rumours about a new Ingenieur are somewhat more unpredictable. The fact that the current, anonymous variant is hardly likely to be a big seller speaks for a new one being on its way, though perhaps not during 2023 – the model is of course only celebrating its 70th anniversary next year. But we will happily wait for it! 

My four remaining pipe dreams come across as somewhat further from reality, but one has to be allowed to dream.