GPHG: nominated ladies' and men's watches with complications

Text: Britta Rossander

GPHG’s nominated watches in the categories ladies' and men's watches with complications are about watches with various types of functions. Both those you might actually need and those you absolutely do not need. And sure enough, many of these complications are primarily made as proof of ”that it can be done”. Which in itself is positive and interesting. A competition between different manufacturers in making movements as complicated as possible is of course also going on. That ladies' watches take their place in this category is fun too. And the winner in the ”extra everything” event must, as usual, be Jacob & Co. Good-looking or not – well, who the devil knows…   

Ladies' watches with complications

Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

A jewellery watch with a very small tourbillon, the smalest on the market, constructed to fit into Bvlgari's classic snake head. Otherwise the watch is a dream fo those who love diamond-strewn watches with full pavé.

Case and bracelet in white gold with diamonds (7.89 ct), manual movement with 40 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m.

Price 165 000 SFR

Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse “Fleur de Sel”.

The watch has a tourbillon with a frame of diamonds at 6 o'clock and an intricate monogram for Charles Girardier at 12 o'clock, an interlaced C and a diamond-set G that swings on an axis. The dial in grand feu enamel is two-coloured.  

Case in white gold with satin strap, automatic movement with 46 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m, diamonds 0.8 ct.

Price 90 000 SFR

Jacob & Co Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

A watch designed to resemble a garden that can be worn on the wrist. As usual with Jacob's models it is extra everything this time with sapphires in all the colours of the rainbow and, as the icing on top, a ”Jacob-cut” grass-green tsavorite with 288 facets. The flying tourbillon is driven by a butterfly!

Case in rose gold with satin strap, stones of 7.63 ct, mother-of-pearl dial, skeletonised mother-of-pearl dial, manual movement with 48 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m. 

Limited series of 101 pieces

Price 390 000 SFR

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

The watch has two hearts that, in the same Lacroix spirit, rotate on a dial of aventurine decorated with silver. In the lower part of the dial there is an arrow-like hand with a retrograde function that is meant to recall Cupid's arrows. On the dail is the text ”je t’aime un peu, beaucoup, à la folie!”

Case in steel with leather strap, automatic movement with 36 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m.

Price 6 900 SFR

Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon

A fantastic watch with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1,03 ct) on the case ring. The tourbillon is placed at 2 o'clock and the time display at 8 o'clock in traditional Piaget fashion. The mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with guilloché technique in the form of rays.

Case in rose gold with leather strap, manual movement whose height is only 4,6 mm, diamonds 1.09 ct,  

Limited to 88 pieces

Price 114 000 SFR

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant Poetic Complications®

A tribute to the dance world and the choreographer George Balanchine after his meeting with Claude Arpels in the 1960s. The case is large, 44,5 mm, with room for miniature painting and many diamonds together with retrograde time display.

White gold leather strap, ct 7.92, manual movement with 52 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m

Numbered edition

Price 438 000 SFR

Men's with complications

Bovet 1822 Recital 27

The watch has three time zones – local time in the centre, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock. All show hours and minutes on a traditional 12-hour scale. A day and night indicator prevents confusion between morning and afternoon. The display of the city corresponding to the time zone indicated by the hands sits above. The discs for the cities can be adapted to the customer's wishes and the three time zones can be set individually and adjusted for while they are adjusted for summer and winter time.

The moon phase indicator requires correction once every 122: nd year.

Tilted case in titanium grade 5 with leather strap, manual movement with 168 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m, blue dial with guilloché engraving

Limited edition of 60 pieces.

Price 64 00 SFR

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

This year De Bethune celebrates the 10-year anniversary of the DB28, the model with the addition XP Tourbillon has an elegant and minimalist white dial with silver. The tourbillon with 63 parts is placed at 6 o'clock.

Case in titanium with leather strap, the movement is manual with 120 hours power reserve, silver-coloured dial with guilloché ”barley-corn” motif

Limited series of 10 pieces

Price 193 000 SFR

Girard-Perregaux Quasar-Light takes “Transparency to the extreme”.

An epic masterpiece with the well-known three bridges in a case of sapphire. A bold move expressing technical skill, modern design and respect for the heritage.

The tourbillon seems to float freely in the case which shows everything in 360 °. The micro-rotor is engraved with one of the brand's recognition marks – an eagle.

Case in sapphire, woven strap with metal effect, skeletonised Automatic movement 60 hours power reserve water resistant to 30 m

Limited series of 18 pieces

Price 294 000 SFR

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1

Greubel Forsey takes traditional watchmaking to a new level. The Hand Made 1 is created entirely from scratch and shows hours, minutes and seconds as well as containing a tourbillon.  

The components (95%) are made by hand and it took 6 000 working hours for a single movement.

Two or three watches per year are possible to make and the inscription HAND MADE replaces the usual SWISS MADE marking

Case in white gold with leather strap, manual movement with 60 hours power reserve, enamelled dial, water resistant to 30 m

Price 750 000 SFR

Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT

A watch for today's globetrotters with an ultra-thin case (9.48 mm). The generous blue dial with thin hour markers has a silver-coloured GMT display at 9 o'clock and daum at 6 o'clock.  

Automatic movement (2.6 mm) with 42 hours power reserve, water resistant to 30 m

Price 19 520 SFR

MB&F HM10 Bulldog TI

The relationship between man and watch is the same as that between man and dog say the people from MB&F, so ”A Man’s Best Friend the Horological Machine N ° 10 Bulldog”.

The case has a generous sapphire crystal and the time display happens through two ”eyes”. Despite the gigantic size, width 45 mm and 54 mm from ”nose to tail” where the greatst height is 24 mm, the HM10 Bulldog is surprisingly wearable.

Case in titanium with leather strap, manual movement with 45 hours power reserve, water resistant to 50 m

Price 106 000 SFR