8 favourites from Bukowskis Important Timepieces on 22 October

Text: The editorial team
Image: Aleksandar Mladenovic

On 22 October it is once again time for Bukowskis to hold the Important Timepieces auction, this time with catalogue number 667. As usual there is plenty of eye candy for the watch enthusiast – and we at Eqotime have of course, in collaboration with Bukowskis checked out the catalogue where we find several real highlights.

This year's catalogue offers an impressive breadth – here everything from elegant dress watches to robust sports watches rubs shoulders, with objects from both contemporary and historic manufacturers. We find watches with different complications, made in everything from steel to precious metals, from eras stretching from the early 1900s to the present day. Among the manufacturers are names such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Audemars Piguet, Eterna and several other well-reputed players.

The viewing runs between 17 and 21 October at Bukowskis at Berzelii Park 1 in Stockholm, and the catalogue contains a total of 122 objects. The auction starts at 17:00 (5 PM) on 22 October.

Here are some of our favourites:

Ebel 1911 Chronograph ”Miami Vice – icon from the 80s with an El Primero movement

Few watches capture the 80s aesthetic like the Ebel 1911 Chronograph – the model worn by Don Johnson in Miami Vice and which became a symbol of the decade's cocky style. Under the 38 mm case in solid 18K gold ticks Zenith's legendary El Primero calibre 40.0 – an unusual movement that was only produced during a short period in the mid-80s.

The watch has the classic ”wave” bracelet in solid gold, and this piece also comes with the original box, certificate and an extra leather strap with a folding clasp in 18K gold. A rare model with collector value – both technically and aesthetically. A genuine neo-vintage gem for you who want to wear the 80s on the wrist.

Auction number 57 has an estimate of 80 000 – 100 000 kronor.

Rolex Explorer 6610 – with Nobel provenance and a radium dial

Here we have an early and sought-after example of the Rolex Explorer ref. 6610, with a ”Radium Chapter Ring OCC Dial” – a dial whose patina carries traces of both time and history. The watch is from approx. 1956, measures 36 mm and is driven by the thinner calibre 1030, which means it wears lower and more elegantly than its predecessor.

What really stands out here is the provenance – this Explorer has been passed down within the Nobel family, originating with Alf Igor Nobel and with certificate, box and chronometer papers preserved. A unique piece of Swedish industrial and watchmaking history, where name, design and movement all make the model a collector's item of the first order.

Auction number 108 has an estimate of 95 000 – 105 000 kronor.

Omega Constellation ”Kim Il-sung”

This Omega Constellation in 18K gold from approx. 1975 is not just any vintage Omega – it is one of the very few that carry North Korea's dictator Kim Il-sung's name engraved on the dial. The model was produced ahead of his 60th birthday and has since then become a symbol of power and loyalty within North Korea.

The watch measures 35 mm, weighs in at approx. 113 grams and is delivered on the original bracelet in solid gold. Equipped with calibre 1021 and an unusual Korean day and date disc, this is an extremely rare piece – with only a handful known in solid gold.

A historically interesting model with a strong connection to its own time – both from a collector's and a cultural-historical perspective.

Auction number 54 has an estimate of 140 000 – 180 000 kronor.

Patek Philippe ref. 565 – steel, sector dial and technical elegance from 1943

Ref. 565 is one of the most sought-after Patek models from the period before the Second World War – here in steel, with a sector dialand a hand-wound calibre 12-120 at the heart. The screwed case of 35 mm was unusual for its time and marks an early step towards a more robust and practical design at Patek Philippe.

This piece is in good vintage condition with a sharp case, signs of age on the dial and fine provenance: the watch comes from the watchmaker Olle Kronke's collection, consigned by the family. Once traded for a Seiko at KTH – today a collector's item with both technical and historical weight.

Auction number 122 has an estimate of 300 000 – 600 000 kronor.

Eterna Delirium Très Mince – technical masterpiece in the thinnest form

When Eterna launched the Delirium Très Mince in 1979 they set a new benchmark for the whole industry. With a total height of only approx. 2,5 mm this became the world's thinnest wristwatch at launch – a result of the case also functioning as the movement's main plate, something that enabled the revolutionary ETA 999 movement.

This piece in 18K gold with the original buckle is in very good condition, with the protective plastic still on, and represents one of the most groundbreaking innovations of the quartz era. Production was short, the price high – and today the model is extremely rare on the market. A piece of Swiss micro-engineering for anyone who collects with both heart and brain.

Auction number 5 has an estimate of 30 000 – 50 000 kronor.

Patek Philippe Neptune ref. 5080

Neptune was launched in 1996 as a dressier sibling to the Nautilus and Aquanaut – with a 36 mm steel case, an integrated bracelet in ”beads-of-rice” style and a distinct fluted bezel. Under the lid ticks calibre 315 SC, a well-reputed automatic movement from Patek Philippe.

This piece is from approx. 1999, in good condition and recently serviced (2024), with a replaced dial that has minor marks. A short production period and a unique design make the model an interesting upstart in Patek's sports segment – underestimated then, sought-after now.

Auction number 87 has an estimate of 170 – 220 000 kronor.

Pulsar Time Computer Calculator – the future in 18K gold, approx. 1975

At the launch in 1975 the Pulsar Time Computer Calculator was the world's first wristwatch with a built-in calculator – a technical marvel for its time. This rare version in solid 18K gold weighs in at just over 170 grams and still has the stylus pen, box and outer carton.

With an LED display and a row of buttons operated with a pen this was high-tech for real, long before today's smart watches. More expensive than many luxury watches at launch – and considerably rarer today. An odd but fascinating icon from the quartz era's most futuristic phase.

Auction number 10 has an estimate of 70 000 – 90 000 kronor.

Patek Philippe 3940R – eternal classic in rose gold

Ref. 3940 is something of a modern icon from Patek Philippe – here in the rarer variant in rose gold, with the acclaimed automatic movement calibre 240 Q and micro-rotor. An elegant and slim 36 mm case, filled with technical finesse: perpetual calendar, moon phase, 24-hour display and leap year indicator – all on a perfectly balanced dial.

This piece is complete with both glass and solid case back, certificate, original box and extra accessories – including a tie and an extra strap with a rose gold buckle. Delivered by Chronometrie Beyer in Zürich, and today a sought-after collector's item that captures the core of Patek's complication renaissance.

Auction number 79 has an estimate of 400 000 – 600 000 kronor.

We look forward to the auction on 22 October starting at 17:00 and the catalogue offers quite a few fine watches beyond our 8 favourites.

For those of you who are going to bid we wish you good luck and a big thank you to Bukowskis for yet another pleasant collaboration.